Posted by: jeanne | June 27, 2014

i’m not going to count the days here

i’m really not.  it’s not that kind of travelogue.

however.  today i did a lot of running around.  it all started with an epic 12 hour sleep.  i woke up feeling really good, and it was just past noon.  but who cares, because it was light all night long.  i kept waking up to see it was light out, and turning over to go back to sleep, and i continued to do this even after all the kids in the lava hostel got up and started running around.  it was great.  and for some reason, tho i booked into a 4-bunk dormitory, i have the room all to myself, so i kind of spread out.

it never rained at all today.  yesterday it just sprinkled a little bit as a particularly thick cloud made its way over us (took hours, it seemed to just sit there, with a strip of blue beyond that i never saw overhead.  but today it was sunny.  and i could see all the way to the mountains, wherever they are.  there are still spots of snow up on top of them, even tho it’s almost july.  maybe they never melt, i can’t tell.

the first thing i had to do was go buy another converter.  i have 2 of them in my luggage, but that’s in storage, and i grabbed the one my brother dave gave me, but it’s the wrong way, for europeans visiting the states.  so i had to go back to the mall at kringlan.  while i was there i took my brother mike’s iphone into the apple store and had them look at the settings, because i couldn’t get onto the wifi even after it came back up this morning.  then i stopped into vinbutin, the liquor store, and got a 4-pack of guinness.  yeah.

with my internet restored (i had changed some settings), i contacted ragnhildur, my facebook friend from the elf garden in hellisgerdi, and we arranged to meet at 2:30 in the elf garden.  i had been there yesterday, and the little elf house sign said it was a coffee house, so i went around the park and didn’t ever see my friend.  today i went back and while waiting for her mentioned to her husband that the sign was different, and he looked at me surprised, and said it used to be a restaurant before, open only on sunny days, but there were never enough of them, so it closed.  i must have been using my history eyes.  i always can ‘see’ how a place was earlier in history, and it’s a great facility when going thru places like new york city, which has tons of history that has been obliterated.  it’s not so fun in atlanta, where all the history, all the old buildings, have been torn down and replaced with something modern.  but never mind.

we had a good talk.  i told her that i was here to try to do some public art involving trolls, up in the troll peninsula of north iceland.  mostly people have to do with huldufolk, or elves, and that’s a different species than trolls.  they don’t have much positive to say about trolls, but i think they’ve been misrepresented, and want to change that.  for instance, gryla is a troll woman with 13 sons.  they are called the yule lads, and they’re the ones who leave presents at xmas, not santa clause.  but gryla is supposed to be a horrible nasty woman who steals kids and eats them.  however, if i had 13 boys i would be a horrible bitch too, so i don’t believe the negative press.

trolls, said ragnhildur, are huge.  there are several classes of trolls, and they start at about 10 feet tall.  then she told me about an ancient elf named frodi there in the garden, who looks like a troll but is only three feet high; very knowledgeable and with a great sense of humor.  she took me over to see his house, and told me about it.  nothing i could see, of course.  she seemed to be gesturing in the empty air in front of the rock frodi lives in when she was telling me about his picture window and teh table he sits at to look out at the garden.  i have no trouble believing these things – i was once chased by fairies when i was in ireland, a notable event i still remember clearly.  she said that the trolls are simple people, like giants tend to be, and that they were quick to anger, but loved singing.  she also mentioned that the icelandic people are spontaneous, and i have already decided this must be true, because everything i have tried to plan has come to nothing.  so we shall see how it is when i arrive in the north.

frodi’s house

frodi's house

after my visit, and hanging out at frodi’s house for awhile, sharing a guinness and some snack cakes (the ones with orange marmalade in the middle and coated with dark chocolate), i came back to the hostel, plugged everything in and charged it, talked to jim adn my sister on the phone, and then took a nap.  now it’s 10.  i had some soup that i bought at the grocery, but i don’t think i’ll be able to eat the lamb and mushrooms i bought.  but i’m going to pack it all up and take it to the reykjavik backpacker’s hostel, where i’ll be staying tomorrow.  i’ve got lots of running around to do then, as well.  that’s why i gave myself 3 days in the capital before going off down the country.

so, since it’s now 11:30 pm and the light is as low as oh maybe 7:30, i think i’ll go back for a walk to the coast, and take another road, and see what i can see.  i love this place.


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