Posted by: jeanne | August 3, 2014

a missing day, and a travel day – djupivogur to hofn

a day is missing because i had a migraine, and so slept the entire bus ride and missed most of the remarkable scenery.  but i had a long nap when i arrived in djupivogur, a very pastoral little port, at the most wonderful hostel in the world – klif hostel – and then took a walk up the hill to see what was there.  i will write more about my hostel stays in a later post, as i will about the pools in iceland.  the way the busses work, there is one a day, so one dropped me off at 4 pm, and i was there until 4 pm the next day.  because i didn’t know what time it was when they dropped me off, because i was still sick, i misremembered that the bus came again at 2, so i had a lot of time to use up in the early afternoon.

 

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when i got up in the morning, it was beautiful out, so i went for a long walk, first up the road thru the lava, passing these cute little old farm outbuildings, then this cool rock collector guy’s house, and then went all the way out to the lighthouse, which required some bog slogging.  but i got there, climbed up to the railing, and took a panorama, then sat on a lava outcrop overlooking the water and watched the waves come lapping in.  for awhile.

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the lighthouse from a distance.  it’s only about 20′ high, and built in the early ’20s.

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the rock guy’s hillside, with all sorts of animals constructed out of driftwood and rocks, with hidden folk on the lava at the top.  he’s got some really good explanations of the hiddenfolk, and i found him really knowledgeable, if cagey, about them.  he brightened right up when i told him i was doing a troll project, so i got his email.  he also is a geologist, or at least a rock collector with a really good knowledge, and since i’m an amateur geologist, i had a really good talk with him.  his shop is bones sticks and stones, on vikurland 7, down by the sea.  well worth a visit if you love rocks.

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i am going to paint this old house for the proprietor of klif hostel, because i had such a marvelous stay there.

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yes, while i had loads of time to sit around in the sun waiting for my bus, i played with an app on the phone that made monster faces.  here’s a selfie to scare the kids with.

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then on the bus, with the windows reflecting like crazy in the sun, and me in my sunglasses, we kept passing these incredibly tall mountains obviously made from millenia of lava flows, and nothing but scree coming down from the heights, with nothing growing on it, just waiting for a puff of wind to bring it all down onto the road.  too bad you can’t see the majesty of the scene in these crappy photos.

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this monster faced us all the way around the coast for a good while, and i believe it’s called brunhorn.  scary.

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and then we were in hofn, which is much more charming than i have read.  and you can see the vatnajokull glacier from there, my first view.  tomorrow will be more views than i will have room for on the camera, so i’m charging it up now.  i’m staying in the hvammur guesthouse down by the harbor.  it’s my only guesthouse on this trip, the others all being hostels.  and i have my own room, with a tv (not that i’ll use it) and a sink, and they provide breakfast, but since i have to leave so early to get my bus, they’re allowing me to make up a few sandwiches before i leave.  thanks so much, i can use them.  i ate at a nice little place called vikin, where lobster bisque (yummy), a greek salad, a beer, and fries with garlic sauce set me back 40 bucks, but that’s iceland for you.  then i took a walk up to the lake where you can see the glacier.  i happened to come out at the hospital, and i am going to need attention to my elbow, which i kind of messed up, so i walked up to the doors of the emergency room, but they are closed after 4 pm.  and that’s really funny to me.  anyway, the arm will wait until reyjkavik on wednesday.  and i walked all the way around the town on the walking path until i got back to my hotel, where i’m writing this, and will now call home to see if everybody’s still okay.  we have ebola now, you see, and i always expect the worst.

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