Posted by: jeanne | February 22, 2015

a random walk thru venice

it started out as a rainy day, and kept on being rainy.  so we got a lot of studio work done.  i finished my sixth painting, and jim is on his umpteenth – i’ve stopped keeping count.

the baby was stroppy most of the morning, so we put him down for his nap rather early – like around 11 in the morning – and when he woke up it was only 1 in the afternoon.  we were all getting a little stir crazy, so we decided to put on the rain gear and venture out.

when we got to the vaporetto stop, we decided where to go based on which boat came to the dock first.  it was the boat to murano by way of fundamente nove, so we got on that.

imagine our surprise as we rounded the end of sant’elena to see the alps in the far distance, looking like they were about 20 miles away.  mind you, it was raining on us at the time, but off in the distance the snowy peaks were in sunshine, taking up half of the horizon.  it was amazing; i couldn’t keep from exclaiming over and over about how amazing it was to see the damned alps from venice.


we got off at fundamente nove and started off in a random direction, toward the nearest bridge.  we met a pair of australians on top of the bridge, who at first thought we were scottish (jim’s beret, perhaps?  my van morrison accent?  i don’t know.)  they were heading up to those very same alps on their eurailpass in the morning, and were heading back to australia in mid april, just like us.  we said we’d probably meet up with them next year in venice.  who knows, it could happen.

then we took a random left turn to go into the heart of cannaregio.  actually, there was nothing random about it – there was a bloody big church looming out of the little tiny alleyway, so we headed down to that.


the church led to a great courtyard,


and then there was a great couple of old walls and windows,


and then there was the end of the camp with its bridge, right next to this other great old house.


and it just kept getting better, with old walls and windows everywhere we looked.

cannaregio is a pretty cool part of venice.


we wandered without looking at the map except for once, and i was surprised to see that we were not very far at all from the grand canal, and strada nova, where marie and i had such a good time on our cicchetti run the night before she left to go home.

one thing led to another,


one picture led to another,


one alley led to another,


and then we were on strada nova.  i pointed out the mcdonald’s and we both took the opportunity to scoff.  we stopped at the same cicchetti place – osteria la bomba – where marie and i had such a great reception, and this time the reception couldn’t have been sweeter.  we didn’t pig out the way marie and i did; we got one thing each.


jim got the potato and onion pancake, connor got a tonno polpetta, and i got caponata (my favorite).  their chocolata calde was more expensive than the food, and my ombre rossa was less expensive than the food, and the little things we ate were enough to quell the hunger and give us enough energy to wander toward the vaporetto stop – any vaporetto stop.

as we were leaving, the owner and i guess maybe his wife came out and gave connor a cookie.  they made a big fuss over him, asked him what his name was, how old he was, and when he asked their names, said antonio and giovanna, and they said ciao a million times.  everybody loved connor.

we wandered up the strada nova to the spot where marie and i took a bunch of pictures of a wall and its canal (only in better light),


and then we wandered down a little alley to the grand canal and took more pictures, and then spotted a vaporetto stop and headed toward it (the street directly opposite the mcCrap’s), and discovered it was ca d’oro, and then found a grating in a door, and took a bunch of pictures of the courtyard, which jim discovered he’d been working on when we left atlanta).  so now we have better photos to use for the details.


and as we got to the vaporetto stop, i stopped to take lots of pictures of the facade of ca d’oro, which might well become a scarf, because i’ve mixed up my dyes and resist and can start painting on silk any old time now.

the rain had stopped as we disembarked at fundamente nove, and everything was dry by the time we got to the grand canal.  the clouds were drifting off, the sliver new moon was out, and the sun had just set, so i got a great picture of the purple clouds as we pulled into the rialto vaporetto stop.


and then we were home.  connor had another bath (to wash off the soap he’d gotten into during his first bath this morning), we ate leftover roast beef and rice with beans, and connor is presently supposedly asleep while i finish this post and get ready to wash the dishes.

it’s been an amazing day, and we’re looking forward to doing something equally amazing tomorrow.

wish you were here.


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