Posted by: jeanne | March 9, 2015

sunday in venice

on sunday, many things are closed in venice.  basically, all the shops except the chain stores, so while you can get groceries, you can’t visit the baker, the butcher, the cheese guy, the vegetable stall, the fish mongers.  we tend to double up on supplies on saturday.  they also don’t collect the trash, and it gets painful to open the garbage can in the kitchen by sunday night, and the plastic bags holding the recyclables get very unwieldy, hanging on their nails in the walls of the kitchen.

it was cold and windy this morning, and we were thinking of going off to the beaches of lido, but felt that the wind wouldn’t do connor any good (never mind us, all of whom are a bit sniffly and red throated).  so we decided to go to a museum, and chose ca’ rezzonico.  before leaving, we drew and fastened all the shutters, because the wind was up enough to bang everything around.  it’s strange seeing it so dark inside.  it’s the way we’ll be leaving the place when we go, in just about a month from now.  sniff.

we got on the vaporetto, all of us, and connor began acting up almost immediately, which bodes ill for visiting quiet places like museums and churches.  it being the day of the women here, as well as everywhere else, there was a women’s regatta, which we only saw the very end of as we passed salute.  one of the women in pink was undoubtedly one of the bloggers who live in venice, whose blog i read whenever it’s updated.  she’ll probably mention it when she posts next.

at ca’ rezzonico we started by checking the stroller,


which these days isn’t used much at all (we’re leaving it here when we go home).


then we climbed up to the first floor, and again were amazed at how huge the palazzos are.




and this one was highly decorated.  room after room with period furniture,

SONY DSC this sofa must be 20 feet long at least.  it looks small in the room

wall treatments, ceilings by tiepolo,


all sorts of art.  it’s the museum of the 18th century, and that’s not one of my favorite periods in art,

 they sure were fascinated with fleshy corporeality back then

so i went thru the rooms noting the decorations and architecture more than what was on the walls.  jim had already been there with marie, but he took as much time looking at the art as he probably did the last time.


kay and i took turns shepherding connor thru the rooms,

SONY DSC thanks, kay

and he behaved worse with every room,


finally stating that he needed to poop (we know that one, he just wants to go somewhere else, and doesn’t need to go at all), that he was hungry, that he wanted to run.

SONY DSC a pastel painting of the time.  jim’s pastel society would be scandalized

he kept trying the patience of the museum guards as well as kay and myself, and at one point i heard him yelling and screaming as jim tried to drag him along to another room, and had to go take him myself, muttering dark threats he paid no attention to.  while i had him in my arms, one of the guards (the guards on the first floor were all women) heard him saying he was hungry, and dug some gummy alligators out of her purse.  he took two, and then arranged to go back into the room once i’d put him down to photograph some canalettos, and got two more.


after that i refused to let him have any more, so he started pitching fits again.

SONY DSC portrait of me on a bad day

SONY DSC  portrait of me on a good day

so we went up to the second floor.  this floor had a whole bunch of interesting paintings, most of them 18th century, some 19th century paintings which i actually liked.


they also had windows, and i made extensive photos out of them, over the rooftops of venice, and down into the yards of some of them.


all the while connor was climbing on things, and rubbing his hands on the walls, and kicking things, and touching things, and the (male) guards almost kicked us out several times.

SONY DSC an 18th century pharmacy on the third floor, who knew…

then we went back downstairs, because he just wouldn’t let up, and went out into the back garden, where there was some ornamental stuff on the walls, and a sort of kids’ playground.


so kay played with him while jim stared at the art,


and i sat and enjoyed the late winter air.

SONY DSC  i’m not sure what planet this is a map of

we needed to go around for another set of shots of that cafe, so i dragged them thru the streets of dorsoduro.


i left my phone at home, and so i couldn’t whip out my map app, and had to rely on the fold out map i’d given kay when she first came here.  it wasn’t as good, because it didn’t tell you where you were.

SONY DSC the location where katherine hepburn fell into the canal in “summertime”

but i found it.  it was not actually where i thought it was on the map, which was good, because they were getting tired of the walking, adn connor was continuing to say he was hungry.

still there was nobody sitting outside of the cafe, so i made them sit out.  kay objected because it was windy, and wanted to sit on the leeward side of the cafe.  but i needed people on the side i needed them on, and listened abstractly while jim tried to explain the exigencies of being an artist to kay.


anyway, i got my shots, and no waiter appeared, so kay and i went into the cafe to see if there was anything she could eat, which there wasn’t, and the prices were too high, so they all got up from their seats and we walked on, looking for a place to have a hot chocolate and something to eat.

SONY DSC jim found this ripoff of a caravaggio

which we never found, so after repeating the walk i did the other day,

SONY DSC connor was fascinated by the guy with the glass harmonica

around the back of the guggenheim and off to salute, we went home.

we were planning on going back out to see the new grocery store on lido, replacing the billa, but we were tired and hungry, so we went home and devoured a bunch of leftovers, and put connor to nap, which took about three minutes, and then i went and laid down beside him, and when we woke up, jim was napping on the couch, and kay was in her room reading.

so i took connor out to the playground, where the adolescent girls all crowded around him, squealing, and we stayed there until the sun was gone, then came in and ate dinner.  and now everybody’s sitting around the living room while i type, getting ready to be put to bed.

tomorrow is another day.  the trash gets collected (paper recyclables), and it’s supposed to be nice and sunny and getting up toward 60 every day.  spring is here!


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