Posted by: jeanne | March 10, 2015

kay’s final day in venice

we all have that cold now. and none of us felt like going anywhere. but kay still had to get those inexpensive masks for the kids back home, and i knew exactly where they were (cough, cough).

so we ventured out.  and the first thing that happened was that as the vaporetto approached our stop and the vaporetto guy slung the rope around the whatever they’re calleds and tightened it, the rope gave a huge pop, and popped.  a broken rope.  it tightened and tightened, and snapped in two.

fascinating.  didn’t think they did that.  but of course they do; they’re only rope.  with a synthetic core, but so what.  the guy unattached it and tossed it aside, and got out a spare rope that of course they keep for such emergencies.  i took a bunch of pictures.  the vaporetto guy smiled; stupid tourist, he thought.  but i saw my chance at a shot and didn’t care at that moment.


we got off at san zaccaria.  it’s just around the back of san marco, i told her, but then didn’t take the exact route thru san marco that i took the day i bought the one for connor, way back during carnival.  no, i took one look at the crowds and decided to just duck into the interior right off the dock at san zaccaria.  which led on a fairy circle kind of chase, looking for the little campo where i’d bought connor’s mask.  i had pinpointed it on my map app, but that wasn’t it, and from there we went on a wander, looking into all the little shops that sell trinkets.  have i mentioned how much my eyes explode at seeing all the knicknacks?  it’s too much, visually.  all the little, brightly colored crap from china filling the tiny little stores.  it’s awful.  but, we were on a mission.

and finally we found a store that sold kids’ masks at about 3 euro apiece, so we both bought some.  i got one for avery to go with connor’s one.  connor will probably want avery’s one, but that’s how kids are…

and then we wandered.  we really didn’t feel like going straight back home, because it was her last day there.  i suggested a glass of wine and some cicchetti, but it was too early, and we’d just eaten breakfast.


the day had started out beautifully clear, and very calm, and bright enough to wear sunglasses, but gradually the clouds moved in, and suddenly all the colors changed, i took off my sunglasses, and started retaking all sorts of photos i’d taken before in different light.


i also took photos of things i had passed by before, just to get them in.  like these masks, quite different than the usual run of carnival masks.


then i decided to go around the corner to the scale del bovolo, because we were getting dangerously near to rialto bridge, and the thousands of tourists were beginning to bother me.  in the week or so since i’d last been there, someone had come by and put up some grafitti, to enliven the annoying plastic netting that prevents decent photographers from doing their work.


fortunately, someone had cut a nice sized hole or two in the fabric, and i was finally able to get good shots of the bottom of the thing, which i need in order to make a painting or two.  and it’s too bad we didn’t have these shots before jim started his latest painting (for which, see his blog in the next few days).


and also these lovely well heads, which weren’t visible the last time, either.


we turned down a random street we hadn’t been on, right outside the street to the bovolo, and found a great little organic food store, which had turmeric! and molasses!, both of which we’d been longing for.  i use turmeric for its medicinal qualities, jim uses molasses in his coffee.

i had to remark to kay that altho i have loads of pictures of her in venice, most of them are of her back, which met with her approval.


here in this beautiful courtyard, you can only see her shoulder in the lower right.  this is the kind of courtyard i wouldn’t mind living in, even if the house is in sestiere san marco, and thus pretty crowded with tourists all the time.  this courtyard is out of the way, tho, and only the odd tourist comes wandering in and back out again – us, for example.


here’s the back of kay’s head, as we both had to lean way out to see up this canal.


we found the door open to this wonderful monastery courtyard, and so waltzed in just the same way we invaded the arsenale last week.  it never pays to be shy about these things.  yolo.


and another courtyard.  the street goes thru right to the left of where kay is, just like many streets in venice.  you can’t see it until you’re right up beside it.


speaking of daring, i was in the middle of snapping this picture of guys repairing a bridge when they yelled out at me not to take any pictures.  i took one more and said okay real sweetly before moving on.  as if they could stop me from snapping a picture 30 feet away from them.  sure, no problem, i won’t take any more pictures than i already have…


looks like art deco to me.  how nice to find something modern in this old part of the city.


somehow we ended up in front of my favorite house in all venice.  and the light was good, so i just had to take another picture.


the same with this cafe around the back of the fenice opera house.  it has armchairs under the awning, so i took a whole set of pictures and will probably end up painting it.

we were tired at that point, and kay wanted to take us out to dinner for her last night, so we didn’t fight it because we’d only been out once before, with marie.  but we were tired, so we got a vaporetto back to via garibaldi and went around to all the restaurants looking at the menus, because kay needs to be picky about what she eats.  we found several that would do, and then went home and had naps.


but you just can’t not let connor out to play, so after he and i got some sleep, i took him out to play with the kids.  only one of the kids was his age, and her mom was letting her go only a little away from her, but some older girls took her and stuck her on the see-saw.  connor climbed on the other end, and the girls wobbled it back and forth.  the little kids loved it.


the clouds that had been gathering all day prevented the sun from being glorious as it set, and this was all i got, which is unusual.  at that point we went down to via garibaldi, got the few things we needed at the shop, and went to dinner.  i don’t have any pictures from the restaurant.  everybody in there was a tourist, tho – some english, some germans tho i swear they were speaking french in the beginning, and later another set of germans, one wearing hammer pants in wool.  i was jealous.  dinner was good – jim had lasagne, i had mixed fried seafood, kay had sole. connor got all attached to a baby octopus that i was too full to eat, but he didn’t want to eat it, he wanted to take it home and play with it, so i gobbled it down while he was crawling under the table to come sit in my lap.  aren’t i a stinker?


this morning kay and i were out the door at 8 to go take her to the airport.  we passed this interesting combination at the biennale entrance, right beside the vaporetto stop.  it’s a barge, with a heavy truck carrying a crane life, and a something on treads, and they were getting ready to install a new piling – the wooden pole at the right of the barge.  i guess maybe we’ll see what it is after they’ve finished putting it in.

it’s an hour and a half to the airport.  if you take the express vaporetto to piazzale roma – the 6 in this case, and the aeroporto express bus.  if you take the 1 and the number 5 bus, it’s another 45 minutes longer.  but we were there just as the checkin desks opened up, so kay heaved a sigh of relief when she was delivered of her bag, and we spent the next half hour or so having a coffee at the little stand-up cafe on the departure floor, and then another 15 minutes saying goodbye and finishing the conversation we’d started at the cafe, and then she was thru security and i was back on the number 5 to venice.


venice as it is not meant to be seen – from the causeway.  not very impressive this way, but it’s over quickly, and then you’re on the vaporetto, and the air is fresh and clean, and the boat rocks even once you’re off it.  every time i drop someone at the airport i realize how much i’m going to miss it when i leave.


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