Posted by: jeanne | March 11, 2015

sun in lido

it’s just not the same without kay here. connor really had fun with her, even getting her to run after him on our way home from the nice meal she bought us (thanks kay). and kay’s ten years older than i am, so running after him on a full stomach, well, i just couldn’t stomach it, myself.

so, it being a lovely day, and the temperatures hitting 60, with very little wind, we decided to go to lido after jim finished his pastel painting and i sketched in all of the outside people on my latest watercolor.


it only looks dangerous.  i had the back of his hood the whole time, and he has the whole idea of ‘fall in the water and you die’ down pat.  from three feet off the deck, the water goes by really fast.  it’s great.  we all love riding the vaporettos – you sway for about half an hour after you get off the boat.


a lot of lido is art nouveau; it’s altogether different from venice proper, having the possibility of getting hit by a car first off the bat.  the houses only look old; why, there’s nothing there over 200 years old, and most of it dates from the late 19th and early 20th century.  some of it is entirely modern, made of cement.  but that doesn’t mean it has to look modern, in many cases.


the novel and movie ‘death in venice’ is set at the grande hotel des bains, which is closed for renovation, and walled off behind steel shutters.  but there are holes in the fence, and where there’s a hole, there’s a way, so i got a few pictures, just in case we want to use it as a backdrop for some carnival figures…


in front of the hotel is a beach.  in front of the whole damned island, actually, which is the barrier island for venice, guarding it from the adriatic sea.  on the beaches are bunches of bathing cabins, which frankly i don’t understand.  they make for good shade, which is totally necessary here, but i can’t imagine they’d be airy enough to avoid stifling whoever sits in them.  maybe they only use it as a changing booth, but wouldn’t a public bathroom do?  maybe they use it to set up picnic doings, or resting after lunch – who knows?


the shore is made up of a very fine sand, and loads of tiny shells.  the waves are quite small, and make a nice sound coming thru the shells.  i’ve uploaded a video here.  and one of connor on the beach here.

jim sat in the sun with his coat on, his scarf, his hat and his gloves, as if it were still winter.  he’s still suffering from his cold, i suppose, and doesn’t have the energy to be hot.  on the other hand, i took my jacket off and draped my scarf around my neck, and connor was in pajama bottoms and got water in to his boots, as well as a whole mess of sand.


when we got tired of being baked by the sun on the beach, we went back via the planetarium grounds.  we hadn’t expected a planetarium, and found that we can go for free on sunday at 4.  so maybe we will.


see, it’s spring.  the flowers are in bloom.  we have new shoots on the rose bush in our back yard, we have some sort of narcissus or lily coming up in the back, the violets are out, and my own daffodils are blooming as hard as possible on the table in the garden.  plus i had my coat off at the beach.


the planetarium grounds boasts a few art nouveau structures, as well as a set of amazing stone or concrete urns, and a kids’ playground, which perked connor up right away.


he had it all to himself, apart from a few locals with their dogs, who sat on the bench and were amused by his antics.


he sure does love his playgrounds.  he looked this one over, and asked if it was his.  how do you answer such questions?


on the walk back to the vaporetto stop we took a side street that ran down the side of a canal.  there are canals on lido, tho they are rare, and you have the chance of being hit by a car as you stroll down them.  this structure is a boathouse, and i was struck by how clear the water is, as always.


this house faces the lagoon, and jim suggested we live there when we become rich and famous artists.


however, i preferred this house, which tho smaller, has more rundown charm.


and the vista of venice, tho it was hazy today, is always just at the end of the street.


see, it’s really spring.  those little things in the water, where connor is pointing, are tiny little baby fish that swim between the dock and the land, presumably hiding from the seagulls.  we’ve only seen them the last couple of days, and they only swim right there where the birds can’t see them.  they were smaller yesterday.  i’ll try to document their progress in the coming days.


while waiting for the boat to leave, connor spotted more fish, and kept askng jim about them until the boat pulled away.

speaking of fish, kay did a fish fry several nights while she was here (doing most of the cooking, as i had predicted – thanks, kay), and the house kind of smelled of fish and oil, but it wasn’t unpleasant.  anyway, we got up to go out this morning, and discovered that the upstairs neighbors had bought and put in the front hall an air freshener that reeked of phthalates.  i was quite insulted, and now i make sure to hold my breath when i go thru the front hall.  what, don’t i use enough garlic when i cook?

after a good nap, i sent jim out with connor to play on the playground while i cooked our first lamb of the season.  i love lamb.  i hope to have more now that we have found them in our new neighborhood store (on lido), the conad that seems to have all the same groceries as the old billa did, but at a higher price…


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