Posted by: jeanne | March 20, 2015

postcard eclipse of renee, part four

so thursday was an eclipse of the sun, starting at 9:30 am and ending two hours later.  so of course we were up for it.  it just so happened that renee was on a postcard hunt, and so we all went out, hoping to go to either palazzo franchetti for the russian impressionists, or to the scuola grande di san rocco.

the clouds were out, for the first time in awhile, and rather than blocking the view of the eclipse, it made for perfect viewing conditions, as all you had to do was look up.  we passed loads of people doing just that, with cameras out, of course.

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where did we get off the vaporetto?  let me think.  it wasn’t at ca’ rezzonico, and it wasn’t salute, or even accademia.  oh yeah, we got on one of the vaporetti that run up the giudecca canal, and got off at zattere.  i’m pretty sure we did, anyway.  or maybe that was another day, and we really got off at san toma’.  the idea was to run thru dorsoduro and look for postcards for renee.  at least, that’s what it turned into, in short order.  i can tell that the photo below (with renee in the foreground) is campo san toma’, so i’m pretty sure we got off at that vaporetto stop.  please forgive me if the days have run together.  we went out with renee, either one of us or both, every day, and led an exausting chase around venice, looking at museums, ducking into churches, stopping to see every postcard in venice.

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at the edge of campo san toma’ we found a nice store selling old prints and maps, etc.  there was this photo of the collapse of the campanile of san marco, back in 1902, and we all stopped to marvel at it.  i didn’t know they’d had enough warning to set up cameras; else that or somebody got very lucky.

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we ended up walking along the main tourist route from piazzale roma / ferrovia to rialto and san marco, where the streets are narrow and lined with tourists, and the trinkets they all want to buy.

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it’s gorgeous, of course, and renee loved every minute of it.  the usual advice in venice is to never go by a church without ducking into it to see what the art on the walls is, but so far we haven’t done that, so it was a change to go into san polo church, which is well worth a visit.  i sent jim and renee into it while i watched connor.

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this winter, and probably every winter, they set up a big outdoor ice skating rink in campo san polo, which totally covers the square, so jim and i were very happy to be back there after they’d taken it down, to get a picture of the fine well head there, as well as the buildings around the campo.  while connor played in the water fountain, and renee disappeared into all the shops looking for postcards.

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going over the bridge at the campo san barnaba, where katherine hepburn fell into the canal, renee paused for a picture with connor, lifting him up and pretending to throw him into the canal, for the camera.  he wasn’t fooled, caught his footing on the railing, and gave her a fright as he threatened to jump out of her arms.

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jim was amused.

but tired.  and when we got to rialto market, we came home in a vaporetto, and i made sure renee was installed in the finest of tourists passenger seats, so she could see the grand canal most of the way along its length.

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after lunch and a nap, we got back onto the vaporetto, leaving jim and connor at home to go out and play on the playground, while i took renee back to san marco to meet her friend britta, who lives here in cannaregio.  we got there half an hour early, so i took her back around the back of the procuratie nova, part of the archeological museum, where they have a series of interconnecting courtyards where they’ve stashed various well heads and statues.  she really liked this one of ganesh and the lady.  some guard chased us out, however, as if it’s not a public space.  renee figured he was on a power trip.  lots of people she runs into are, you know.

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still waiting for time to go meet britta, we did the circuit of san marco’s piazza, looking in all the shop windows.  this is where i found the olivetti offices designed by carlo scarpa (sorry no photo), and took a bunch of shots of people sitting at the outdoor cafes, for a planned painting maybe i’ll get around to doing.

finally we stopped at the south end of the basilica, next to the entrance to the doge’s palace (we checked, it costs 17 euros to get in to see one tintoretto painting (albeit the largest) and some stairs), and i took renee’s picture posed against some looted columns outside the building.

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and then her friend showed up, and i left renee in good hands, to have dinner and make her way home in the evening.  so i walked home from san marco, taking the back ways and crossing some lovely bridges that no doubt i had photographed before.  but as i have remarked before, once the light changes, it’s a different spot, and deserving of memorializing.  so.

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i stumbled upon this lovely garden, behind rusted and overgrown gates at the edge of a campo hidden behind doors which happened to be opened when i passed them.  let’s see (checking the huge map on the wall here in my apartment).  it’s not entirely unkept, because the forsythia bushes had been trimmed into globes, whereas if you leave them untrimmed they get very large and very fountain shaped in a hurry.  i can’t see the name on the map, or on my app, but it’s off of calle de l’arco, around near the back of the scuola si san giorgio degli schiavoni, where they have a bunch more carpaccios that renee and i tried to get in to see, but the hours are notoriously unstable, and it hadn’t been open so far…

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and then there was this boat simply crammed full of workmen on their way home.  i got several shots of them, but this was the closest.  they’ve got their feet over the side, happy as clams.

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while i was going home, i made sure to scope out lots of other things renee wanted to see, without knowing it, like the shop banco no.10, which has clothes made by the women’s prisoners from giudecca (how exotic), which had some really nice things in the window, and since renee likes to shop, i knew she’d want to see it.  more about that on another day.

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i got home just in time for sunset, and was so tired that it wasn’t long after dinner that i went to bed.  renee got home around 10:30, but was so quiet that i woke up at 11:44 looking for her and wondering if i should worry, but then saw the light under the door to her bedroom, and went back to sleep.

that was friday.  i’ve got saturday right thru to today (tuesday) to document, and then i’m done until francis gets here from barcelona.  wee hah.

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