Posted by: jeanne | March 22, 2015

renee and two more museums (part 6)

i’d better wrap this up soon.  renee has already been home at this point, even tho i’m backdating the posts, and we’re getting ready for francis.

on sunday, it rained a little.  i sent jim and renee out without a map, and they went to san pietro, the island a bit north of us where they used to stash the pope’s representative, because venice.  we’ve been there several times ourselves, on our morning walks, but renee hasn’t seen it, and the church is supposed to be beautiful inside.


but they didn’t get inside, because the church was closed.  jim actually went there on monday while we were out, and said the art is horrible, and he hated it.  i’ll get to that eventually, because he took a picture of a tintoretto to illustrate just how bad presentation gets.


anyway, he and renee went into the cloister right next to the church, and jim took this picture of a tree, which he is in the process of painting on a full sheet of fabriano.  it’s going quickly, unlike my painting of the cafe, because it’s simple, and because jim works 6-8 hours a day.


the reason they didn’t need a map is because i told jim all you have to do is continue down via garibaldi after it turns back into canal, and the bridge to san pietro is right at the end of the canal.  so they couldn’t get lost unless they wandered back, which they did.  but because this part of venice is isolated by the arsenale, it’s kind of hard to get lost, except momentarily.


so they came back, and jim took this picture of renee at our front door.  for posterity.  so now you know where we live, and can come to our door for coffee someday.  except we leave in three weeks.  wah.


after they got back (you can see it’s not quite raining in any of the pictures jim took), renee and i went off to see palazzo franchetti and the exhibit of russian impressionists.  it had rained a little bit, which you can see by the rich colors on the buildings.


crossing the accademia bridge, we came across this new dock being built.  you can see the poles on the boat, and also how the steps go right down into the water.  of course they have to do constant replacement and renovation here, because otherwise it would all fall down in a big hurry.


palazzo franchetti

we’ve been seeing the banners for the russian impressionist exhibit for months now, so it was a relief to finally go see it, especially when we found out it was free.  ca’ franchetti and ca’ loredan serve as conference centers as well as exhibition spaces, so maybe that’s why.  who knows.  anyway, they’re palazzos, so i want to go see them and take pictures.  for research purposes, of course.


this is one of the nicest well heads and caps i’ve seen in venice, and the gratings on the ground floor windows are also exceptional.


and this is the beautious stairway.  in venice, apparently, stairs were an afterthought, and usually stuck on the outside somewhere, around the center courtyard and well, say.  eventually they became integral to the structure of the house, but in this case, they built an extension and put stairs inside that.  but then they decorated it like nobody’s business, and it’s the grandest set of stairs i’ve seen yet.


according to the literature in the exhibit, russian expressionism wasn’t a period, but a style that continues to this day.  i do love the impressionists, no matter when or where.


looks like a photograph; looks like the actual view out a window.


the rooms are magnificent, with great details, flocked wallpaper, ornamental ceilings, terrazzo flooring, and huge big windows on the piano nobile.  oh yeah, and murano glass chandeliers.


this is renee’s favorite painting of the whole lot.  i had others i liked just as well.


see what i mean about the ceilings?


and even the little details in the hall were wonderful.  lapis inlay, carved marble leaves, bottle glass windows in the doors.


here’s renee fixing to fall down the stairs.  such a card.

palazzo loredan

so then we moved on to ca’ loredan, which is also part of the same conference center setup, located just across the campo from ca’ franchetti.  its staircase is where you’d expect one to be, and is all carved marble.  the ground floor hosts a whole mess of marble busts of famous venetians.  not sure who the guy in the picture below is, but renee really loved the well head set up in the entrance hall.


the stairway went up on the sides of the hall, and these are only half of the busts there were to see.  renee loved the floors, too.


upstairs was the glass exhibit.  i was prepared not to like it, and i was not disappointed, tho renee thought it was great, and insisted that connor had to see it.  no way in hell, i replied, as i had just been warned not to touch anything myself.


the place is a floor of beautiful library spaces, with lovely built in shelves and cabinets, comfortable chairs and couches, great floors, wonderful windows, and tremendous ceilings.  just like all the restored palazzos we’ve seen.


we’re in the salon of the piano nobile, and you can tell because of the windows.  this monstrosity is the featured piece of glass.  it blinked and made noises and in general was a tremendous eyesore.  renee loved it.  just imagine connor let lose there.


but it was in a great room.


and just look at that door!


outside on the campo, the street is still wet, and there’s a nice cafe and building i might want to paint one of these days.


back in the palazzo, one room with otherwise almost overbearing decorations also had a broken mirror on the floor, artfully arranged.  but still, a broken mirror.  oooh, art.


but renee loved it.  she loved everything about venice, and didn’t have time to get tired of anything.


the ceiling was much more interesting than any of the neon art pieces lower down.


and look at this gem, on the corner of the staircase back down to the ground floor.  all carved marble at the turn of the stairs to go onto the landing, and then up to the first floor.  it looks real, except for the colors.

so then we wandered in a homewardly direction.  and i was so fed up with modern art that when we happened upon this storefront exhibition, i thought it was every bit as worthy as the glass exhibition was, so i made a special point of photographing it.


just look at the colors, the attention to detail.  such vision, such painterly effects.  gag.


three points if you can guess what famous renaissance painting this rips off.


hoping to avoid going down calle largo 22 march – the big ticket shopping street, we wandered toward the grand canal, but were thwarted by a series of streets that went down to the canal and stopped at docks.  but were rewarded by a few lovely little gardens secreted away.


and as we made our way to the vaporetto stop, renee kindly posed for a couple of photos in front of the salute church, which i don’t think she actually got to see the inside of.  so much to see, so little time.


renee, loving every minute of it.


and posing again at the edge of the doge’s palace, for posterity.


so we went back to sant’elena and renee took us to one of the two cafes on viale 4 novembre.  thanks, renee.  this one was recommended by out landlord, and actually turns up in a guidebook renee had with her, so we went right after sunset, because nobody eats dinner at 5:00 here.


they used paper tablecloths here, that’s how local it is, and renee gave connor a pen to keep him quiet.  until now he’s been drawing spirals and scribbling lines, but for the first time we got an actual figure out of him.


see? spiderman.  at three.  i’m impressed.


so dinner was roast pork and potatos for jim, eggplant parmesan for renee, lasagne for me, and a bit of everything for renee.  because the internet wants to know what you had for dinner.


and that’s another day.  at this point, renee only has two more days in venice.  stay tuned to see how much she can fit in.






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