Posted by: jeanne | February 3, 2017

rain only enhances things in venice

okay, so what it’s rainy out? it wasn’t raining very hard. the forecast was for temporary clearing, and it was close to 50 degrees outside. so connor argued, sucessfully for once, for not wearing his jacket, and not wearing his water boots. jim had his jacket on and was out the door before i could suggest his boots and his raincoat. i put on my boots, because the least bit of water gets my regular shoes wet. we wore our down jackets, except for connor, who wore a vest. i had to come back to the house within a block to get him gloves and a hat which he steadfastly refused to wear, but dragged around in one hand all morning.

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he’s pointing at some scaffolding he wanted to climb. in the rain. as if.

so we started off in the direction of dorsoduro, to the part near piazzale roma that we haven’t explored yet. one of our top picks for somewhere to stay is in this direction, so i wanted to see it with my own eyes (the agent wouldn’t consider a discount).

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venice has many many hidden gardens and green spaces behind high walls

but we never got there. we ended up in campo santa maria margarita, aptly misspelled because of all the partying that goes on. one of our very top picks was in this campo, on the first floor, with windows overlooking the campo on both sides. the owner even graciously offered us a very good discount. but i’m glad we didn’t take it because of all the students, and the infamous night life.

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mostly students, just hanging out in the rain, clotting up the streets

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can’t figure out what this is – a dragon? a scorpion? an octopus?

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i loved this shot of a tiny tiny house under renovation, and a local woman trudging by in the rain

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jim likes the use of different stone on this wellhead and its pedestal

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jim got slower and slower as we went; his shoes are slippery when wet

we stopped into a church as the rain got heavier, and spent half an hour drying off before the sextant kicked us out for i suppose the noon mass. as he kicked us out he blew out all the votive candles people had lit at great expense (50 cents each). i was a bit annoyed, because i had lit a candle myself. does that mean my prayer won’t be heard?

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the church was a 14th century carmelite monastery (much rebuilt and repaired – the bell tower was straightened at one point), with a 97 meter vault and many very dark paintings nobody could see. there was a light under the tintoretto painting, but neither of us had the 50 cents to make the lights go on, so we didn’t get to see it, never mind photographing it.

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the side portico of the church, very distinctive

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the side wall of the church, glowing green with the rain

we continued on. the rain had slackened while we were in the church, but as we walked on toward the zattere – the south end of dorsoduro next to the giudeca canal – the rain picked up again. we couldn’t go much further. jim wasn’t complaining, but he was getting wet thru his jacket. and connor had completely given up on staying dry or keeping his sneakers out of puddles. he found a wheelchair ramp over one bridge, and ran up and down it whooping the way he does, until we reached what might have been government offices or customs buildings (big huge and relatively modern) and decided to go home.

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connor finally gave in and stuck his head under a dripping overhang, giggling hysterically

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even tho he’s cute as a button, when girls pass him going ‘squee’ he gets mad, thinking they’re laughing at him. that was his reaction after this shot…

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they might be small egrets; they had whispy feathers that blew about with every breath of air

so we came home. we were closer than any of us knew, and came out on campo san barnaba almost immediately upon deciding to turn back. and of course at that point there was nothing for it but to go to the bakery and get frittelle. michela was there, and had a look of sympathy for his imperial wetness, but gave him a big hug nonetheless as all her friends and coworkers looked on and went ‘squee’.

we stopped at the conad and got a whole chicken. we came home and had frozen pizza all dolled up with fresh mozarella, ham, some caponata and fresh garlic (separated before cooking into three pieces so the boys didn’t get poisoned by all my additions). then i had a nap, and when i got up, made tiramisu wtih some amaretti and marscapone. that’s in the fridge. i had made bread dough earlier in the day, so i baked the bread, and jim wanted rice for dinner, so i put that on as well.

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dark clouds (pictured) gave way to sunshine at the end of the day. so much for the weather forecast…

after we had tea and frittelle the boys went out for a walk as the sun was setting (over an hour and a half ago), and i continued the cooking. i still have to roast the chicken, which won’t be stuffed with bread, because we’re having rice. i’ll put mirepoix into it instead (don’t know what the italian is for onions, celery and carrots). we have too much to eat at this point, but i guess that’s the point. it’ll all go into soup in the end.

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