Posted by: jeanne | February 8, 2017

two days

two days reported together, because boy things are certainly moving along quickly right now (today we went to the doge’s palace for a total of 785 photos – i’ll have to tell about that tomorrow).

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pigeons at the living room window. funny, we only feed them from the kitchen

the rain finally stopped. the first day (monday i believe) it was still pretty wet, so we went out in our rain gear. but it was for naught, and we got rather hot at one point. first, of course, we went to the market.

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i saw a tourist taking a picture of this place, and they were right

the day before, connor had lost his gloves, so against jim’s advice we went back to the acqua alta bookstore to see if they were still there. i had seen them lying around when he went to pet the cats, and told him to put them in his pocket, but i guess he ignored me and left them there. there was hell to pay later when i discovered he no longer had them. i would have just gone on forever without them, as a lesson to connor (hah!), but that would have meant buying him a new pair, so we went back for them. i taught him how to say my gray gloves (i miei guanti grigi), but he said ‘can i pet the cats’ when he got to the shop, and so i ended up asking for them. there they were, and so we left the shop with them, connor still demanding to pet the cats, who were nowhere to be found.

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sometimes the bridges run together

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they get really creative with masks around carnival time

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stopping to take a photo of the wellhead we stumbled upon, i bent over to relieve an ache in my back, and ended up all sweaty and dizzy, so we went and sat in a cafe and had caffe lattes that cost us 4.50 apiece. if it hadn’t been medicinal…

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in campo santi giovanni e paolo connor found some friends, but this girl was really mean, and tried to run over all the guys in the campo. some of her friends were starting to back connor into a wall, so we moved on.

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after the rain everything looks really crisp and clean (for an old and dirty city that is)

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jim went off with the camera while i rested over my coffee. he loves this church

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in front of the church of the miracles wrre a mess of kids playing wellhead with their umbrellas while their moms stood around talking or on their phones

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there are starting to be a lot of costumes in the windows so close to carnival

then we went along to strada nova so i could finally get those fernet mints i love so much. connor was much improved after running it off, and i felt much better also, so we kept going. alas, the shop was either gone or closed for the afternoon (even tho it was after 4 by this time).

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this shop front drew connor’s attention. We’re reading him fairy tales every night

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as it got dark, we headed for the vaporetto, but made a slight wrong turn and ended up in the casino. well, not in it, we didn’t meet the dress code. but we loitered around the entrance long enough to capture a nice wellhead and a lovely statue. the light was gone at this point, but our camera is a real trouper.

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that’s the moon. first time we’ve seen it in about a week

the next day, the sun finally came out, and we shed all pretense of foul-weather gear, and strolled about in our regular clothes. it’s getting warmer now that we’re into february, and i spent our time out with my jacket open and my gloves off.

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when you have a 24 hour clock, you only need one hand to tell the time. this is the oldest church in venice, at rialto. it’s a music hall now

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we had to go back to the bovolo, because i have almost run out of my turmeric and ginger paste that i use in everything, and a little organic shop around the corner is the only place that has turmeric (that i have found, in 2 years). so we got to campo manin, where the big lion is, and connor amused himself for ten minutes or so while jim and i went around taking photos of all the amusing things in the campo. like the water door below.

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when we got to the bovolo, it was half an hour before they closed for lunch, so we decided to wander around. turns out this is a part of town i have wandered thru alot, mostly arriving mysteriously at some place i knew, from some place i didn’t. today was no exception.

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first we went down the street of the assassins, which has a nice bookstore and many remaindered books at a discount. connor found a set of passarelle, which he considers to be landlocked vaporetti, and jumps up onto, races along, and jumps off every time he finds them.

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then we found palazzo fortuny (i like the back of the palace better, as it’s still old and dirty, while the front is all dolled up). a lady came by the front of palazzo fortuny while we were setting up to photograph the wellhead in the raised campo in front of it, and tho i took a photo of her, i came back to take a photo of the pigeons that were very glad to see her sandwich.

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and then we found a nice courtyard with an unexpected wellhead. it was actually an open door that we just waltzed on into (bad tourists).

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then, around the corner, the head of a canal. the water at this end was barely inches deep, and had all sorts of things sticking into the mud. men come down there to pee on the steps all the time, and it was pretty stinky, so we didn’t hang around. the heads of canals are always kind of strange and creepy to me.

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there was another gate with another courtyard, and i had to stick my camera lens into the space between the bars in order to take this photo. but i really love the look of the place, and might well paint it next.

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around the back of palazzo fortuny there’s this wonderful garden, with a wellhead and palm trees and vines growing up the house. i don’t know how many times i’ve photographed it.

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then i spotted a grocery store that i remembered from last time, and we went in to find oatmeal (italians apparently have no use for oats), and black rice. this store has many things that other stores don’t carry. i forget the name of it, as i always forget exactly where it is. the fairies must remove it when my back is turned. and this lovely courtyard was right over the bridge from it, with this lovely wellhead inside the courtyard. some sort of government building.

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and then we were at the courtyard that i have painted before, that jim didn’t remember until i described the doorway in the corner, which was open the last time we were there, revealing a woodworker’s studio. if we’d spoken any italian last time, we would have talked to him. this time, the door was closed.

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and it was past two. i could tell from my grocery receipt (i keep forgetting my phone at home, and have no map, and no idea of the time). so we returned to the bovolo, paid our 6 euros apiece, and walked on up.

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and up.

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and up some more.

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connor, of course, raced to the top ahead of us, and jim lagged behind.

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but i had the camera, so i stopped at every angle, every floor, and took photos of the stonework, the houses opposite, the little campiello at the foot of the stairs.

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at the almost top we went in to a gallery not very filled with not very good paintings – a cross section of typical venetian artwork, according to the written material.

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the ceiling beneath the top gallery and the real ceiling

i liked the architecture and pretty much ignored the paintings. jim, of course, studied the paintings. this one is only a go-by for the largest oil painting in the world, which we saw today at the doge’s palace (to be described).

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then it was up to the very top. you need handrails to go up this stair, and they got creative making the handrails fit. i love italian sensibilities.

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after taking photos of absolutely everything visible from the top gallery, we started down, but the sun came out suddenly, so i let the boys continue down, and marched (dragged myself) back up to the top and shot everything again. it was that different.

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the real roof

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that’ll be san marco’s domes just visible, and the campanile prominent on the skyline

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jim and connor clowning around waiting for me to get done

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the real roof, made of lead as are so many of the rooftops in venice

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back to the bottom, and my last task was to photograph each wellhead for jim’s collection

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we finally got to the campiello with the wellhead and stairs that you can see from rialto market, the one we tried to get to the other day. the restaurant is closed for maintenance, however, so i wasn’t tempted to stay for lunch or happy hour

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we found these silver canes on the rialto bridge. i thought the price was 12.50 hahaha

so that was two days and 700 or so photos, nothing to what i took in a single afternoon during our visit to the doge’s palace, coming up next.

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