Posted by: jeanne | February 14, 2017

the frari and s. rocco

we went out for fish early, but the market isn’t open on mondays.  many things aren’t open on mondays, so we didn’t go visit any museums.  i  made bread.  we watched a helpless family of south american tourists strand themselves in our campiello waiting for an empty taxi to cruise by (they don’t; they wait at dock for people to come up and hire them, or call them on the phone.

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taxi, taxi!

i felt really sorry for them, and went out to tell them so in my nonexistent spanish, but after advising the guy to leave the family there and go find one around the corner on the grand canal, a taxi cruised by having discharged its passengers up our canal away, and after we all yelled ‘taxi’ came to a stop at the edge of the campiello, and they all got in – yay!

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a sight you don’t often see in venice

but after awhile we got cabin fever, so went out to the frari church to see what the fuss is about.  it’s on our combined church/museum pass.

it’s a huge church.

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.

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frari means friars, so it’s an old monastery, with a cloister and all, but the main way i could tell was that there were damned few women depicted anywhere.  all the statues were of men, and some of the art depicted scenes of death and torture, not the kind of things you find in churches dedicated to mary…in fact, the church is dedicated to the assumption, which is all about mary being taken up to heaven.  but you couldn’t tell by the interior.

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it’s an enormous church.  the ceiling was a million feet high, the columns were way bigger around than my frittelle-expanded waist.  people were dwarfed by the size of the place.

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the titian altarpiece that made his reputation

but there wasn’t all that much in it.

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to tell you the truth, i enjoyed the little everyday details more than the  monuments

a bunch of enormous statues, a gigantic choir.  no seats, tho.

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connor making another friend in front of the gilded choir

except for a few rows of wooden pews up near the alter, the floor was empty, some folding seats piled against the walls out of the way and out of sight.

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bellini tryptich

but everything was marvelously worked, very fine sculptures, exquisite marquetry, gold leaf everywhere.

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a sansovino sculpture connor is honoring with ring around the rosie

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and a nice wellhead in the cloister, which was unfortunately closed to public access, except thru windows.

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a pieta by someone only a few years younger than myself

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once connor saw this anatomically incorrect fellow, he went around being a zombie

once we’d had enough of that we decided to go see the scuola of san rocco, which is only around the corner.  but first we stopped into the church of san rocco, a very small church at the back of the frari, where there are regular pews all the way up, and the usual paintings you can’t see very well, and statues of saints blah blah blah.

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a pious pope, the tenth one

there was one very modern (early 20th) painting of pope pius x, who was a very conservative pope who resisted the modernization of the catholic rituals, but was also a marian, which isn’t all bad.

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jesus making light work of vendors without permits

there were other paintings showing torture and death as well.  why such an emphasis on something we as a species should be growing away from?  it’s disheartening.

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from the steps of san rocco, to the right is scuola san rocco, the frari to the right

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nice skull.  note the homer simpson t-shirt underneath

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sorry to be so tastless as to put him under the homer simpson…

then we came back home and jim and i took a nap.  connor got to play minecraft.  when we got up, we had tea and frittelle, and then the boys went to san marco to see if there are any costumed people posing.  part of the reason we’re here at carnival is to get lots of photos of posed costumers, and they general show up at dawn and dusk, partly because of the light, partly because of the lesser crowds.  it’s been dark for an hour now, so i’m expecting them back pretty soon.  then we’ll have more chicken and tortellini, and turn in early as usual.  if there are posers down at san marco this evening, then jim intends to get up before dawn and go back down there.  i’ll let you know.

ps there is nobody out taking costume pictures yet; we’ll wait until this weekend.

 

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