Posted by: jeanne | March 5, 2017

counting down

saturday.

with marie on her way home, the apartment is quieter.  connor has lost not only a friend, but her ipad that he could draw pictures on, and her iphone where he could play ‘plants vs zombies’.  so he’s acting up a little.

it was a cloudy, rainy day, so we didn’t go much of anywhere.  we went to the fish market and got some very thick tuna steaks, one for me and jim, a little chunk for connor.

img_5929

on the way back, we went a back way, past a candy store where i’ve been stocking up on menta fernet candies (medicinal).  last time we passed it, i told connor he could choose some candy for himself.  he was like a kid in a candy store.  he wanted everything in there, but i let him get three kinds of gummies and a rope of strawberry.  that’ll last him until we leave, and then we’ll get icelandic candy!

img_5932

someone is pasting up pretty interesting heads, of at least three different styles.  we really like this one.

img_5934

just another routine venetian view, with laundry.

img_5937

when it rains, the colors come out because water changes everything.  it also makes plaster fall off the walls, but there’s got to be a price for beauty, right?

img_5943

our trip out was just around the corner today.  it was raining softly, and we didn’t feel like going anywhere special, so we took in san polo church, which is our local parish church, and we’ve been putting off going there the whole time.  jim regrets we didn’t take marie there while she was visiting us.

img_5953

they had the stations of the cross in a back chapel, done by the younger tiepolo.  they were his first works, according to the printed material in the church.

SONY DSC

jim thought these were the best works in the church.  i was impressed by the use of renaissance clothing in a first century biblical scene.

SONY DSC

connor was impressed by the zombie (the leper) being carried around in a cart.

SONY DSC

see how fast things deteriorate  here.  the artworks were freshly restored, and in great condition, but the same couldn’t be said of the walls.

SONY DSC

connor was a big hit with the attendant.  he asked for a piece of paper and a pencil, and went over to a pew to draw something.  it looked like a house, with connor in front.  he signed it connor.  the attendant put it up in the window behind himself, and proudly announced, ‘we have tiepolo, we have a veronese.  and now we have a connor!’

sunday

it started out raining, so we worked at home, putting the finishing touches on our proposed t-shirt, called ‘no selfie’.

img_6013

i was fiddling with the photos for today’s post when i saw somebody rowing by with two oars.  i was impressed.

SONY DSC

when it looked like it was going to clear up (despite the rain forecast), we decided to go to san michele, the cemetery island.  we went there last year, and were looking forward to going back.  so we walked to piazzale roma and got a 4.2 vaporetto that, tho crowded, took us right there.

SONY DSC

.
img_5982
you can’t quite see it, but those columns lean out at a pretty good angle

it was lovely, as usual.

SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC
connor has learned to drink from every fountain he passes – the water comes down from the mountains and is as sweet and soft as it can be

we went to the protestant part of the cemetery, meaning foreigners, whose families don’t take care of the graves the way the locals do.  they almost looked vandalized, but it was just time and weather.

SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC
who knew they had selfies back in the days of art deco?

the cemetery was begun in 1797 when napoleon decided burying people under the paving stones in the streets of venice wasn’t sanitary, and filled in the space between one island and another in the lagoon to accommodate all the bodies.

SONY DSC

and since there’s only so much room on an island, people are only allowed to not live there for 40 years, and then their bones are plotted onto an ossuary island in the lagoon, as has been the custom forever.  last time we were there, we saw a small bulldozer at work, but it was sunday, and the families tending their dearly beloved’s gravesites are best spared the gruesome reminders.

SONY DSC

the graves of the strangers, tho, are still where they were planted, including ezra pound (nasty right-wing poet i put in the same category as ayn rand), brodsky, diaghilev and stravinsky.

SONY DSC

.
SONY DSC

when we came back, it was with the intent to visit most of the northside churches, which include madonna del’orto and the miracoli, as well as the basilica of saints giovanni and paolo.  but we only got to john and paul, and then we were tired of looking at art.

we discovered when we got there that the basilica is not on the chorus pass we bought, and the entrance is 3.50 each.  jim and i hesitated, while connor waltzed on in, and the attendant asked if he was with us.  we said yes, and went to call him back, but the guy said nonono, if he’s with you, it’s important that he see the church, so you go on in with him, and it’s okay.  we offered him a contribution of 2 euro, but he told us to buy candles, so we did, at every statue and icon of mary that had candles in front of it.

SONY DSC

the church was lovely, way high, and full of nice stonework, great carvings, beautiful paintings.

SONY DSC

.
img_5995

when we were done, the nice attendant told connor, who was asking if he could draw the guy a picture, that he could pick one of the many postcards to have as a gift from the guy.  he chose san sebastiano with arrows sticking out all over him.  i thought he was going to get the mary with a thousand putti and a bambino, but he went for blood and guts. hhe’s a boy, what can i say?

SONY DSC

we made our way to the miracoli church, one of two freestanding churches in venice (the other being the church of the archangel gabriel), but jim had had enough, and wanted to go home and get some lunch.

SONY DSC
above this beautiful well, we heard two ladies talking to each other across the campiello, one at each window.  connor said ‘ciao, i’m down here’ and they all conversed for a few moments

we turned down the next alley, and came across a campo with a nice wellhead, and a coop store.  so i parked him on the well’s steps and went in for some bread, cheese and meat, and some milk, our usual lunchtime fare when we’re out.  i came back, and there he was talking to a cute young girl, but connor soon stole his thunder.

SONY DSC

she was german, and her master’s thesis is game of thrones.  she was working in a copy of volume one with highlighters and stickies, and i’m not sure what she was structuring, but it looked more complicated than the plot.  connor talked to her the whole time i ate my sandwich, and when i was done, i dragged the other two off toward rialto bridge.  connor ended up sneaking much of his bread to pigeons along the way, sort of like handsel and gretel, and jim only finished his sandwich as he was coming in the door to our apartment.

SONY DSC
it’s easter season.  they make the most amazingly overblown easter eggs here

the laundry went on the line, the bread went into the pan, and connor and i went to the frittelle store for the very last of the frittelle (they made a batch this week out of habit, and we got the last two crema and one venetiane).  and now jim’s asleep, connor’s playing minecraft, and i’m working.  as is usual.

SONY DSC
sometimes venetian fashion is more whimsical than practical

it’s strange to be spending our last week in venice.  it’s odd to be spending it in such quiet days.  we are trying to get to some of the things we need to do before we leave, but we’re not rushing, and our habits of sleeping, eating, and napping are unchanged from the first days.  we leave on saturday for iceland.

SONY DSC

Advertisements

Responses

  1. Jeanne, I have been following your blog of the daily adventures that you , Jim, and Connor have enjoyed in Venice. Your beautiful photography and the wonderful casually detailed descriptions have provided me with a visit to the carnival in Venice. I have thoroughly enjoyed it.

    I attended The Art Institute at the High Museum during the time that Jim was there. This comment section doesn’t give me the opportunity to send a photo to Jim but I have something from that period of time that I want to show him. I will include it in an email if I can have your email address. It has to do with his winning the Mead Packaging Co. “Southeastern Art Contest ” in 1962. Also, I would like to visit you and Jim at his studio when you return to Marietta. I have been unable to find an address or phone number so I hope you will reply to this comment section. Thanks , Ed Pittman

    Like

    • we’ve sent you an email, ed

      Like


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Categories

%d bloggers like this: