Posted by: jeanne | March 6, 2017

five…

five more days in venice.  i’m counting down.  i’ve started packing up the art supplies.  i’m doing a batch of laundry every day, rain or not.  there are only two more presents to be bought, and connor keeps changing his mind about the one he’s getting for momo.  we’re using up as much food as we can, and deciding which unopened jars of this and that we’re going to attempt to pack.

and we’re going out to take in the sights we’ve been meaning to catch before we go.  so while it was still bright an early, between bouts of rain, we decided to finally go to the top of the fondaco dei tedeschi, which was built in 1128 (rebuilt 1505 after a fire) to house german merchants and their goods.  it’s got an inner courtyard with a well (now used as a wishing well complete with money, tho the guard fussed at us for letting connor climb up and see), and four floors.  they used to restrict the merchants to this building, along with their goods, and their shops.  sort of a gated community, but to keep them in, not keep everyone else out.

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today it’s an ultra shopping mall, which i’m allergic to – all those smells, all that money.  there was an outcry when it was revamped, but at least now we can go in, and there’s a great viewing platform on the roof that they’ll let you into for free.  so we went.

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the view is magnificent.  it’s as high as the bovolo is (which we couldn’t see from there), and nothing like as high as the campanile, but its importance is that it’s right on the grand canal, which you can’t really see from the campanile.  we took the long lens and i got several complete panoramas of the almost 360 view.

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to the northwest, mestre and marghera in the background

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to the north.  again you can see marghera in the background.  we had never noticed how these church belltowers line up

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the beauteous and crowded real estate bordering the grand canal, rialto bridge in the foreground

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i love rooftops in the sunshine

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san marco and its never ending renovation.  those domes are false domes, put there to impress

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connor looking out over the city.  i almost had to stage this photo, because he spent most of his time playing

connor immediately found someone to play with – the guards.  he really loved the guard who identified himself as tupac, because he played with him readily.  the other guard, who was called eminem, was a little less playful.  they could lose their jobs if their bosses saw them guarding small children instead of the grownups who have all the money.  too bad if something were to happen to the credit card carriers.

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when we got thru gawping at the city, we decided that today we were going to find madonna dell’orto.  so we walked up to strada nova and found the irish pub, and followed the same path marie and i walked to get to our rowing lesson.

while we were on strada nova we bought a piccolo c0ne of amsterdam fries for 3.50, because it was getting on and we were starting to be hungry.  we walked along eating them, connor with a pointed stick, me and jim with our fingers.  i carried the cone, and refilled the boys as they finished their french, sorry, dutch potato, and dipped mine into a cup of curry sauce, trying not to eat them all up.  we finished them on a bridge next to the one below.

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ponte chiodo ponte chiodo is the only bridge without railings left in venice.  in the beginning none of them had bannisters.  and this one is a private bridge, but that stops nobody.  not even us.

as we walked along, we started passing restaurants, and the weather was so nice that there were tables and diners seated next to the canal.  these two restaurant cats were there next to the trash can, messing with each other, and of course connor came up slowly and petted them.  as he did so, everyone at the tables went squee and reached for their cellphones, and someone walking by did the same.  awwwww.

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then i tossed the trash from our cone of fries into the bag, and they instantly ignored connor.

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after stopping to gaze at tintoretto’s house, and wonder if he managed to paint his huge canvases there, we went on to the church where tintoretto is buried, which has a number of his paintings.  madonna dell’orto used to be dedicated to someone else, but after a statue of mary and her kid was placed in a nearby garden, and started being responsible for miracles, it was moved inside the church, which was renamed.

this is a very old church, from 1355, on the ruins of something from the 10th century, and is venetian gothic.

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tintoretto’s ascension of mary

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herself and the bambino.  we lit a candle, of course

connor spent most of his time with the attendant, named filippo, drew him a picture, traded names and ages, etc.  jim and i cruised around peering at dimly lit and at the same time glared-out paintings by mostly tintoretto.

when we got out, we wandered by this non-working squero, where connor spotted three large and very furry cats, which may well be maine coons.  strange that someone would export a maine coon here, but whatever.  they’re everywhere in our neighborhood at home, why not here too?

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we made our way down to the church of the miracoli, the only other freestanding church in venice.  its main attraction is the building itself, because there are very few paintings or other artworks inside.

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it’s made of marble, and is in the early renaissance style, done about 1485 to house yet another miraculous painting of mary.  there were no candles to be lit here, but i showed connor how to screw down the fake candle into its electrical base.  not the same thing, but they still want a large donation.  a whole euro!

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the attendant wasn’t having any of connor’s antics, either, so we didn’t stay very long.

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and then it was time to go back to the apartment, because we’d walked a lot, and were tired.  i’d promised connor some ice cream, but by the end of the walk we were just too fatigued, so that’ll be something for tomorrow.

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one of the oldest doors in venice

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the only reason i took this picture is because his hair color matches his clothes

we wandered into a courtyard where a little girl was riding her scooter, and she and connor chased each other around for awhile.  then she took the corner wrong and fell.  her dad scooped her up and let her cry, and connor picked up her scooter and brought it to her.

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when we get to the rialto bridge, connor always shouts that we’re almost home, and races on up to the top.  we sort of limp, even tho the steps are nice and shallow.  there are just so many of them, and we always have to run the gantlet of tourists taking selfies at the top.

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so that’s five days to go.  the last day will be cleaning and getting the bags to the airport.  currently there’s a traffic controller’s strike in france, and loads of flights have had to be canceled, but we’re leaving the day after the strike is scheduled to be over, so maybe we will get thru.  i will of course let you know.

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Responses

  1. Left you a comment several days ago. Looking forward to a reply.

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