Posted by: jeanne | March 7, 2017


since we’re running out of time quickly, we feel it necessary to do everything at once.  not really.  there’s only so much we can do in every day anyway, so we just go about our business.  we’re eating leftovers and running out of things.  we’re washing floormats and duvet covers and putting them away.  i’m scrubbing cabinets and sinks.  i did the first packing this morning, and got much of it actually inside the suitcases.  i haven’t weighted anything yet, tho.  when we first arrived, i got on the scales to see if my weight corresponded to the weight i had when we were at the airport.  it was 65 kilos then; i haven’t had the nerve to weigh myself again because a frittelle a day keeps the scales away.  but now that it’s time, i’ll let you know tomorrow how much weight i’ve gained.

once we got out, we headed for the vaporetto, right past a snake of hoses and workmen doing something in an open doorway.  it was obvious what they were doing before we got there, because of the smell.  venice’s sewage treatment is like no other city’s.  it’s gravity and tide driven, but that doesn’t mean your toilet flushes directly into the canal.  it actually mainly goes into holding tanks under the pavement, and then drains into the canal when the water reaches a certain height, flushing out with the tides.

it was actually bubbling when we passed it

but sometimes it doesn’t drain properly, or the tunnel collapses, or gets clogged up.  and that’s when the guys with the hoses come and lift the stones, and put the hose in the hole and suck all the shit out.  and boy does it smell.  but it has to be done, and the guys who do it are used to the smell.  the tourists sure aren’t, tho.  we heard a bunch of them gagging and complaining as we continued on to the vaporetto.  check out this vimeo on how venice works.  the sewage part starts at 6:38

as we got off at san marco, i spotted this wonderful coat on an english tourist, and asked  her where she got it.  a xmas market in london, unfortunately.  but i can do this kind of embroidery, so perhaps i will.


we continued to san zaccaria and took the number 2 vaporetto to giudecca and the redentore church, palladio’s masterpiece in venice.  it was a plague church, commissioned in 1577 as thanks for venice’s deliverence from the plague, which killed 55,000.  i guess they thought everyone was going to drop dead if they thought thanks was appropriate…

art deco building, some kind of museum that was closed

just your everyday door plate in venice

the island has a lot of residential buildings which seem to be pretty modern (post ww2), and there weren’t many people or shops, except for a gigantic hostel.


the ex-vaporetto is from i don’t know how long ago.  it’s way smaller, and rides very low in the water.  i think it’s used for maintenance on the vaporetto docks now

if you look hard, the mountains are visible, snow only at the tops


giudecca is not at all like venice.  there was this one old guy out for his morning stroll, and he beckoned to connor with bruce lee moves.  they had a blast for about five minutes, and then he turned to go back to his cafe.


the redentore is a plain church, without much decoration, and those paintings in it are mostly from the school of, rather than from the hands of the masters.  there’s supposed to be a fossilized nautilus in the center of the main nave, but it was covered, so we couldn’t see it.  there’s a sacristy full of interesting paintings and sculptures of the heads of saints.  connor was kind of creeped out, and the guard making sure we didn’t do anything bad wasn’t very happy with connor sitting on the benches, so we didn’t stay long.


more zombies

back in venice, we saw some very statuesque costumers waving at passers-by, so connor ducked under a bridge ramp and ran over to them.  i got a photo, and then they started fussing.  ‘you speak english?’  si, i replied.  ‘we want a donation,’ they insisted.  so i sent connor back with some of his own change that he keeps in his pocket – pennies only.


we saw an artist with halfway decent paintings, but curiously monochrome in this candy colored city.  we checked him out only until he got off his phone, and then jim said something nice and walked away.


we ducked into the interior and immediately got lost.  which was fine.  i had my map app.  but somehow i got turned around more than once, and we had to backtrack.  but that’s okay; there’s always something down the little ramo we walk along.



we’ve always liked this woman’s work.  this is her version of the bovolo


we dropped our ‘no selfie’ design off at the bragora t-shirt shop on salizada sant’antonin.  we told them if they use the design we’d appreciate a t-shirt of it, but otherwise, so long and thanks for all the fish.

then we bought a replacement bowl for the one we broke some weeks ago at the nearby simply casa store, and wandered around to see if the secret garden i discovered (hah, i discovered it, right) was open.  the gate was in fact open, even tho it has apparently changed hands and the sign was marked private.  but we went in anyway, got a shot of the well head, and peered thru the gates at a marvelously dilapidated garden.


and then it was back to wandering.  we finally got a phone call back from the agent in charge of a palazzo we would like to rent if we had a group of 15 artists come over to paint in venice for a week – one of our get back to venice schemes.  we’ll be meeting the agent at 11 tomorrow to visit it.  it’s near campo sant’angelo, and we were trying to get to it next, but the walk began to be arduous as we got closer to san marco.

it was so bad at this bridge, where they all went squee and reached for their cameras, completely blocking the bridge, that jim himself sped  up and skirted the crowd.  i was impressed.  he must have really been pissed off.


we passed this cute pizza restaurant once we cleared the crowds.


and we passed this good example of why you shouldn’t attempt a sunset painting anywhere on earth without a good deal more restraint than nature shows.


and we passed this great t-shirt, which i would consider buying if i hadn’t already finished shopping.


and finally, we passed this wonderful design, that i can reproduce now that i have a photo.  it’s worth thousands of euro, and i could knock it off for the cost of the fabric.


on the vaporetto home, connor went to his usual seat while jim sat in back, because we were pretty tired and hungry, and didn’t feel like fighting the crowds.  the kids were getting out of school at this point, and they all thought connor was so cute.


and now we’re home, and have had lunch, and a nap, and tea, and we’re about to go out and find campo sant’angelo.  maybe there’ll be a photo in it.

and so there was.  we wanted to take a traghetto across the river, but as it was getting dark and we didn’t have exact change, we took the vaporetto instead, just one stop.  connor met a nice old german woman who played with him until the boat came.  they were only going the one stop, too, but we lost them in the crowd when everyone got off.  apparently there are a lot of people who take the vaporetto one stop, just to get across the river.

we walked along until we think we might have found the place.  for reasons of whatever, rental places don’t show you exactly where a place is until you’ve rented it, or in our case, arranged to go see it.  we’re going to meet the lady in a neutral place tomorrow, around the corner, actually, but i always want to see if i can spot our destination before being shown it.  it’s marked on the google maps, actually, but doesn’t show up on my map app.

palazzo degli angeli, it’s called, tho it doesn’t exactly look like a palazzo from the street side.  they often don’t.  it’s when you see it from the canal that you know what it is.

this might be it; we’ll find out tomorrow

we went to the campo to see which of two wellheads we’re going to meet in front of.  it hardly matters; i told the woman to look for the loudest kid in venice, so she’ll find us before we spot her.

she told us to meet her at the wellhead in front of the acquapazza restaurant.  i found it, and had a gander at the menu.  wow, and i thought 10 euros per course was alot – this place starts at 20 and goes to 40 a plate.  damn.

the campo is one of my favorite, with lots of palazzi on it, and my favorite house in all of venice in the corner – a beat up old pile that’s decrepit enough to win my heart.


once we rounded connor up – he’d found someone to talk to – we started for the accademia bridge, which was just around the corner.  on the way, we stopped to have a look at the church of santo stefano, which isn’t part of the chorus churches, and is free to go into.  they do have a no foto policy, but so what…

it’s a beautiful church, and we’re very much looking forward to going back to it after we interview the house.  13th, 14th and 15th century, wikipedia claims it’s one of the oldest catholic churches on earth.  i don’t suppose it’s older than the ones on the moon, tho.


as we walked on, we decided to go visit the palazzo franchettifranchetti on the way back tomorrow.  they have an exhibition about space, but who cares?  just going thru the building is worth the price of admission (free).


then up and over the accademia bridge, past the galleries selling i suppose modern fakes of old masters (tho i suspect that if you don’t ask they won’t tell you), and on and on.

i only just noticed that the body on the right is made of carnival masks.  connor saw it

as we crossed the bridge from campo san barnaba, we passed this wonderful object loosely tied to the railings with a piece of string.  perhaps it had been forgotten?  perhaps the shop it was parked outside of was the owner?  who knows.


so home to leftover spaghetti, and now the boys are taking baths, connor in the sitting tub with his toys, jim in the big tub that adults can swim in.  and i’m finishing this up, and then i’m going to weigh the suitcases, which is futile, because i still have stuff to fit into it.  iat this point it’s not a question of weight so much as it is space.  where am i going to put that jar of strawberry jam, where is jim’s mask going to go, do we wear the water boots on the plane or stuff breakables into them?  all these decisions, and more, tomorrow.

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