Posted by: jeanne | March 8, 2017


what a nice day we had.  only to have it all turned upside down when i came home to find my web browser acting like someone pulled the plug.  actually, i believe it was during an attempted upload to the cloud of all my 17,000 photos.  it was hopeless, really, taking about five minutes to upload one single photo.  so i let it run all night, and when i got up this morning i couldn’t get onto the internet to do anything.  so that long-postponed wipe and clean install of my operating system happened this afternoon, and i’m only just winding up all the tweaking i had to do to get the system back in order.  so.

today we went to the market and got some orata – sea bream.  and slowly sauntered back.  the forecast was for clear skies and 53 degrees, which means 63 degrees as if nobody could tell it was coming.  we unzipped our coats, and connor took off his vest on the way home.  once there, we had about an hour, so i packed some more, did more laundry, consolidated and repacked, weighed and repacked some more.  funny, tho i can’t button the top button of my army surplus antarctica-expedition wool pants, the scale says i have lost weight.  i’m weighing in at 63 kilos now, where it was 65 kilos when i first came.  go figure.  at this point, both bags are just under the weight limits, and that’s good.  i haven’t bothered packing up the carryon backpacks yet.

we left the house at 10:30, intending to take a traghetto across the canal to sant’ angelo.  but the lads rowing it were still in their little dock when i decided to catch the vaporetto instead, and my impatience was rewarded by our vaporetto taking ten minutes, and the traghetto coming almost immediately.  oh well.  but it was not a problem, because we got there in two minutes after landing on the other side of the canal, connor steaming ahead as usual.


we were met by a nice young lady name of hannah, who is american, married to a venetian – good for her.  she took us to the very building we’d found last night, and we went in.  we did forget to ask the age of the house, and it was quite unprepossessing on the street side, but it was indeed a palazzo once we got in.  we explained that we were going to organize a painting trip with artists from the states, probably next fall, and needed to have room for 10-15 of them to eat, sleep, and paint.  so she showed us the ground floor, very nice, and the first floor, even nicer, and the top two floors which are one apartment – way nice indeed.  the windows and balconies looked out over the street, and also over one of two canals that are too narrow for most boats to come up, and the place had an altana as well, up a very steep set of steps, with a look over the rooftops.  it will suit us perfectly.  we can put the studio up on the third floor, in the largest living room space, and pull in some tables from some of the kitchens to give us all enough space to paint.  so much for that part of it.  now to organize the trip and get artists who want to come paint in venice for a week.  it’ll happen.

Screenshot from 2017-03-08 13:27:38


when we were done touring the modest palazzo, we revisited the church of santo stefano, which looks even better in daylight.  the church itself isn’t on the chorus system, but the sacristy is, so we went in and walked around, including a nice sculpture gallery and enclosed garden with a wellhead.

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once we were done with that, i did want to roam around and see if i couldn’t find several nice places that i’d seen from the vaporetto, but we were getting hungry as we crossed campo san stefano with its outdoor restaurant seating.  the day had gotten so warm that there were loads of people taking the sunshine and stuffing their faces.

so since we were not in the mood for wandering, we went to the palazzo franchetti, where they have an exhibition about space.  a lot of italian artists have done space-themed art, and it was all very nicely staged.  the museum guard followed us around, as ever, but instead of talking to connor, she talked to me, and explained everything, and cautioned me not to touch; all that.  i was quite excited by all this, because i have done a series of planet paintings myself, and always wondered if there was any place i could show them.  if nasa retains any funding at all, perhaps i can show it under their aegis someday.

the palazzo itself is worth a visit, as it has been all spiffied up since coming into ownership of the austrians, way back in the 1800s.  the staircase is a thing of beauty, and the rooms are all full of parquet, high ceilings, huge (and very warm) windows, exposed beam ceilings – everything you’d expect from a really big palazzo.  our rental palazzo is very modest compared to it, but of course we could never in a million years afford to rent something like palazzo franchetti.


and then we were up and over the accademia bridge, and wandered home the same way we did last night.  this time we were hungry, so the trip was faster.  and most of the stores were closed for lunch, so there weren’t the usual distractions.


once home, we had a nice lunch (sandwiches for connor, and omelet for me and jim) and then jim went to take a nap.  i would have taken a nap, but i discovered that my computer was hosed, so i got a cup of coffee instead.  but once i started the reinstallation, and jim was up wanting to make our last batch of rice, we decided to go around to the frittelle place and get some ice cream.

connor’s been getting little spoonfuls of ice cream for the past few weeks, but this time we all got a cone.  connor got his usual cherry, jim got dark chocolate, and i got mint.  the ice cream is much creamier than at home, and of course much different from the medicinal ice cream i make myself.  we walked back home as we ate it.  and that was our snack before dinner.  we’ll probably do it tomorrow and friday, but we’ll see.


i packed some more, then sat at the computer and tweaked all the things you do after a clean install.  jim made rice.  then dinner, and a bath for connor, and they’re in the kitchen at the moment eating store-bought ice cream while jim does the dishes.

this evening i’m not sure when i’m going to get to bed.  i still have lots to do, but at least i’ve sped thru the recounting of the day, and now i’ll install a photo application and manage the pictures i intend to load into this post.  and then i’ll release it, and perhaps go to bed.  who knows…




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