Posted by: jeanne | March 9, 2017


today dawned bright and early, and i’m exhausted, with one more day of packing hell to go thru.  but connor was up and at’em adam ant.  we decided we were going to go visit the icon museum, and needed to go see the pigment guy to get some jars, and we wanted to get a good photo of the palazzo we’re thinking of renting for a large group, and i was determined that the boys have the experience of crossing the canal in a traghetto.

but first connor got to take the garbage down.  just this last week, venice has changed its garbage collection methods.  instead of leaving your trash on a string, or hanging it on a nail on a wall during the hours of 6-8am, you now have to wait for the garbage folks to ring your bell from 8-12, and then you can bring it or lower it.  but what if you have to leave early?  you’re supposed to leave it at the pickup point for the birds to play with…sounds efficient to me.  but we’re leaving at 4 in the morning, so i’m not really sure how to handle the last bit there.


connor went out to play with the garbage guy.  he speaks a bit of english, so connor has attached himself to the guy, and they play chase and other games whenever we get ready to leave the house in the morning.  right now, this evening, he’s busy drawing them a picture of the boat, and them, and him, and we’ll be giving it to them in the morning.


he’ll do another one for the boss of the frittelle place, and we’ll give that to them tomorrow evening when we go for another ice cream.

we took a vaporetto down to san zaccaria, where they were taking up the ramps over the bridges.  they install them every year at carnival, and then take them down before the summer tourist season starts.



then we made our way to the bragora t-shirt shop, where we left a bottle of turpentine that we can’t take back with us.  the guy was somewhat surprised that we were giving them something.  they were surprised when we gave them the design, too.  we like surprising people.

the greek orthodox church and convent and museum was right around the corner from the shop, so we made our way there, intending to visit the icon museum.  but it was closed and the lady wasn’t thru sweeping it out, so we got a finger wag instead of getting to give them money…


and we went into the church instead.  omg it was magnificent, unlike anything else in venice.  the greeks had been in venice for centuries, but until 1498 they weren’t allowed to have a church.  this changed in the early 1500s, and a church was built in the mid 1500s, designed by longhena.  and it’s full of icons.  many churches in venice have icons at the altars, but this was overwhelming.  anybody who is interested in icons needs to visit this church.


there was a guy in there talking to somebody; he caught me aiming for the ceiling with my cellphone and said no foto.  so i had to hide behind jim in order to take these pictures.


and this one is smaller than usual because i had to use the reverse camera and aim it upward.  that’s the ceiling, a dome covered with mosaic tiles.

after we visited the church for awhile, we walked back toward san marco, aiming for the area near sant’ angelo where that palazzo is.  but first we passed this lovely graffiti.


as we got to san marco, connor had his inevitable accident playing on the stacked passerelle, whanging his back on one of the support bars.   we comforted him instead of telling him we’d told him so, and as we continued down the piazza, a waiter came along offering chocolates to all the kids.  so he got his comfort and his treat.  he felt better before we got to the end of the piazza.

but because of this, he wanted to get on the vaporetto to go up to accademia, instead of walking.  so we did.

we found the pigment store, and asked to buy some empty jars.  at first the lady balked, but soon took pity on us, and sold us three jars, which i came home and filled with pigment, and with my turmeric paste, which i don’t feel like throwing out.

then we crossed over the accademia bridge, gave some money to charlie chaplin  and wandered off to find various courtyards only glimpsed on the vaporetto.  we passed a nice palazzo under restoration, where somebody had blocked the gate open with a brick – thanks whoever you are.  connor objected, but we walked right in and took some photos. YOLO.


this is one of the courtyards we found.  it’s got an enormous tree growing in the middle of it.  the other courtyard seemed to be a hotel, because tho i’ve always seen people inside it, we couldn’t find the entrance.  aw.


we passed this cool art store – open by appointment only, and peered thru the window.  connor likes rhinoceri.


and a little further on we passed a silver ball, and connor made faces at himself for awhile.


and this nice window that will soon have a pot of flowering plants in it.


and there was this wonderfully decrepit house close to the palazzo we want to rent, and even closer to the traghetto stop.


we particularly liked the way these shutters are falling apart, showing how they were constructed.  the floor above had beautifully painted shutters in great shape, but this was what i wanted to get a photo of.


and here’s the canal side of the yellow palazzo we want to rent for a group of artists to stay in.  fits 18 people, with enough room for an art studio on the third floor.  the canal is super quiet, because it’s too small for most traffic, which is a plus after staying in garbage-collection campiello for two months.


then we came home, had lunch, and took a nap.  when we got up, it was time for ice cream, and to get something for dinner, so we went back out.  the boss wasn’t at the frittelle store, but the guys all said hi to connor, and sold us ice cream cones.  grandpa took his in a cup, after the mess he made with the chocolate ice cream yesterday.  i sure am glad i got a photo when i had the chance.

this is from a lovely little shop on the way back from the conad store.  the glass is unlike most murano glass we see, with loads of gold.  they also had icons, but they were glass ones.


this morning on riva degli schiavoni, we found a splat thingie on the sidewalk.  it was filthy, so we put it into the backpack and brought it home to wash.  later we found one of the very cardboard things the sellers display them on.  i’d been telling connor he could have one if they sold for a euro or less, but once i saw one, i realized a euro is far too much.  they’re basically little water balloons.  you splat them down onto a shiny cardboard surface (so they don’t get filthy), and the flatten right out, but then pop back up.  we’ve seen people on the streets selling them since we’ve been here, and connor has always wanted one.  so after i cleaned it up, he spent half an hour smashing it onto the cardboard, and finally, as i told him it would, it broke and splattered water everywhere.  he cried for a few moments, but soon got over it, and after that he drew his pictures, and now he’s ‘playing’ minecraft with grandpa (doing everything and only requiring that grandpa watch).


it’s getting dark out, we’re going to fix dinner, and then i’m going to pack the backpacks to make sure everything fits.  i’m right at the weight limit for the large bag, and have loads of weight but no room in the small bag.  there’s a strike on in france, the air traffic controllers, and tho it’s supposed to be over friday, we will have to wait and see if we will be able to leave on saturday morning.

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