Posted by: jeanne | March 14, 2017


so we went out yesterday for an epic trip around the peninsula.  but first we stopped in to see maria mey, a statue that was put in place after someone who was looking for water suddenly had it appear in the rock.  according to siggi, there is no water in this part of the peninsula, and so it was a miracle.  and the water is holy.  so we filled up our bottles.


and then we found a few candles that weren’t too wet from the rain the night before, and we lit them.  why not?  we lit candles to mary all over venice, i wasn’t about to skip such a nice grotto.  and of course it’s always the same wish…


then we went over the mountain to the northern side of snaefellsnes peninsula.  which road is it?  siggi had to stop and ask someone whether the road was open, and it was, so we went.  snaefellsnesvegur, also known as frotharheithi.  it was very beautiful, and there was lots of snow, but then you’d expect that so close to the glacier.




this emergency hut has been closed.  so many tourists have desecrated it, eating all the food, shitting in the hut, wrecking things, that they closed it.  used to be that the wives of the men who worked in the mountains would decorate and stock it.  but now that’s all ruined.  too bad if someone were to need shelter in a sudden storm…


jim is always in a good mood.  i was working on getting sick, but you just can’t keep him down.



look, frozen ice, dripping and freezing.


when we came to the other side, as siggi had said, the sea was completely different from how it was on our side.  he says when it’s bad on one side, it’s always good on the other side.  nice to know.


we stopped to take pictures, and connor got out before we could put his coat on, so he got really cold.  but some chinese tourists thought he was so cute, and stopped to take pictures of him.  it never ends.


when we got to grundarfjordur, we stopped to shop for things we need to eat.  we got a lot of food, and probably won’t eat it all while we’re here.  they had ground lamb!  and connor got a hotdog.  we all got hotdogs, actually.  connor and i had with everything, and jim had only the hotdog and bun.  siggi declined to eat any hotdog, but had a few fistfuls of french fries.


we stopped again, after we bought him waterproof mittens, and he went nuts in the snow while i took pictures by the side of the road.



we stopped at the shark museum.  this is their back yard.  such forms, such intricacy.



connor spent most of his time eating snow.  such a delicacy…


we ate shark in the museum.  not bad, really.  it smells of ammonia, but tastes rather like very chewy cheese.  they serve it with little bits of bread, and jim spat his out immediately, so i tried to feed it to the dog, who wasn’t having it.


i want one of those dogs.  maybe when i come in the summer…


the owner of the place, hildibrandur, whom siggi knows, came up and played with connor, tossing snow back and forth at each other.  of course.


he was a little intimidated, but mostly intrigued, by the shark mouth, which has rows of teeth.


we drove out to the barn out back to see the hanging shark.  did you know the skin of shark is like studded sandpaper?  not very nice to feel, you could cut yourself.


then we went back to grundarfjordur and had dinner in a nice little place that’s only been open for 3 years, and is family run, but already has an international reputation.  bjargarsteinn.  it filled right up with mostly american tourists who came prepared to spend big bucks.  but it was really good.  and they treated connor like a kid.  there were crayons and a coloring book.


it’s a tiny kitchen, and the owner is the chef, and his family works there.


we toured the house, which has been moved several times.  jim doesn’t fit thru the doors without bending.  icelandic people used to be smaller.


connor didn’t much like the food, and picked, but he loved the bread.  and of course went outside immediately he was finished to play in the snow.


on the way back over the mountain, it snowed, and the road got slippery.  but siggi is a professional driver, so we just had to hush connor.

and that was yesterday.  now is today, and the wind is much more.  i’ll get to that later.  i’m afraid i lost a bunch of photos because my memory stick is full.  with a thousand photos a day, i’m wondering why that has happened.


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