Posted by: jeanne | March 15, 2017

last day in snaefellsnes

the day dawned bright and calm, but wait five minutes… connor ran out to catch the snowfall, even tho it was ice that was blowing sideways. we got ready to go about noon, which is when we start moving here. breakfast, sandwiches for the road, keeping connor from running too loose. my nose is running like the tide now, so it’s a good thing i brought two of my specially dyed silk snotrags with me.

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we went up the coastal walk to arnarstapi, jim, runa and i, while connor hung out with siggi near arnarstapi so they could pick us up. because runa thinks of everything, i had on snow pants which protected my legs from the wind, as well as all my scarves, my icelandic wool hat, and my down jacket hood. i brought my winter down gloves, because i got minor frostbite trying to take pictures in the wind yesterday. and once we were in the lava, the wind wasn’t so bad. if we’d gone a few hours earlier, there wouldn’t have been any wind, but then we would have encountered the ice shower.

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this lava is very old, because the volcano on snaefellsnes is ‘dormant’. they thought it was extinct, but lately there have been rumblings, so they’ve begun putting sensors around it. i had assumed that this lava came from stapafell, but siggi says not so. other sources disagree…

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trolls

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jim is not dressed for the weather, but he didn’t complain. runa is dressed for the weather, which makes us all look like the staypuft marshmallow man. you can’t go wrong with too many clothes. tourists we passed going the other way beat us to the end because they were so underdressed that they froze and decided to end their trip.

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along the way there were many opportunities to overlook the ocean, which was every bit as exciting as walking thru the lava.

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you can see the columnar lava in the cliffs. it’s because the lava as it hit the sea cooled down rapidly and crystallized. i believe it’s harder than the usual lava, which tends to crumble into gravel.

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troll

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here are two shots of the same mess of rocks. one with water, the other with water.

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this is the famous sea stack near arnarstapi. unfortunately i can’t find much on it at the moment.

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more columnar lava. the sea is so strong

the sea is so strong that siggi said fifteen years ago there were two blowholes, tunnels where the waves would rush in and blow thru the surface, creating spray on the land surface. those holes are gone now, and the viewing platform is at the edge, waiting to fall in. siggi told me to kneel down to get this picture because the wind can be so strong that it can push you right off the edge. but i was too impatient, and the wind wasn’t that strong. famous last words…

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this is the new tunnel being formed. siggi says the land changes so fast that he doesn’t recognize it any more

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this is bardur, half man and half troll. after many adventures, he retreated into stapafell and still lives there.

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bardur fits right in

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siggi came to get us as we reached bardur, thank god, and we went to the little hamburger and fish and chips stand nearby, where connor had made friends, and they were stuffing him full of fizzy drinks and candy bars. i want to do a painting of them. they loved him.

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then we went to the harbor at arnarstapi, which is a mass of sea stacks they turned into a protected shelter some time ago. it’s very beautiful.

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home to many millions of birds. siggi says these birds have come to iceland four months early, and are already nesting. crazy weather. used to be nobody could do any kind of heavy work before may, but the bulldozer crew was already out making new foundations for more summer cabins.

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out on the sea side of the harbour. much more dramatic, but still beautiful.

and then we came back home, around 4pm, and went to bed. it’s almost 7 now, and everybody’s getting up. it’s really tiring being under this mountain, in the wind, going here and there. even they’re not sick, and we’re still all taking naps. except for connor, of course. he watched two videos while we slept.

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