Posted by: jeanne | October 15, 2018

exotic india

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tuesday the 9th. we’re at the departure gate an hour before boarding. everything got done in time, nothing went drastically wrong, and we’re just waiting for it all to kick in, so we can have something to eat and go to sleep. we’re very tired.

the last three days were a whirlwind of activity as i slashed thru items on my list. matting and framing all those prints for the show immediately upon my return – that was the hard part. 75 prints, 14 framed. if jim hadn’t helped out by doing all the framing, it wouldn’t have gotten done. if i’d tried to mat more than 4 prints of each image, it wouldn’t have gotten done. in the end, i ordered more mat board to be here when we return, and stacked up all the shrinkwrapped and framed prints. they’re ready to go, and i’ll have a couple of days to make the rest.

monday was more of the same, carving things off the list. trips to target, the bookstore, lowes, cvs. washing the dogs, cleaning the house. we had a last minute contact from our good housesitters, and so connor’s room had to be spotless, with clean sheets and bare counters. i decided to turn the bed to face the windows. it takes up more floor space, but gives a more normal bedroom appearance. it doesn’t really work with the ceiling fan, tho, because the foot of the bed is right underneath. i wonder if that means kids can kill themselves that way…

saturday. we’re in delhi; have been since thursday morning. the time difference is amazing, and we’re going to bed early and waking in the middle of the night. that’s why i’m awake now, while the rest of the house sleeps. but i still need to write about our trip here first.

on tuesday. we schlepped sebastion an hour’s drive east to drop him off at the kennel. he was happy in the back seat, and jim and i enjoyed the trip. but because i didn’t have a phone with me and the map i keep in he glove compatyment’s scale was too small, i got lost. we then visited two different fire departments and asked the fellows where we were going, and finally we got there, a place deep in the woods where the dog barking wouldn’t disturb the neighbors. the ride back was equally restful, but as it turned into a 3 hour tour, it was a little rattling. our plane was only hours away and i wasn’t packed.

so when we got home it was to open up all the bags and pack stuff into them. gabi had asked for a list of things to bring with me (after i forced her to come up with a list), and all of her stuff went into a small rolly bag. all of our stuff went into the other small bag, and these went in the middle of the big empty bags. then i packed stuff around them. i brought things like organic flour and yeast, so i can make bread, various gifts, and a spare pair of jeans for jim, and more books than we’re likely to read, coffee beans and our french grinder, canned milk for our coffee, and lots of medicine for when/if we get delhi belly. then i went around throwing extra things into the bags. finally i zipped them up and weighed them, and damned if one of them wasn’t overweight. so out came one of the rolly bags, and that left the large suitcase half empty.

i had my guinness at 4 that afternoon, still pretty much unable to eat because of the stress of it. jasper came over at 6, renewed his acquaintance with the animals, and hung out. he’s doing us a big favor, and i’m not entirely sure he’s going to enjoy living on his own (he’s such a family man), so we hope he’ll be okay. i think we managed to shove down some leftovers so at least jim wouldn’t starve.

and then just before 8, jim’s son michael arrived with his truck, and we did some last minute things, like putting all the plants outside, and then drove down to the international terminal with us and dropped us off. thanks mike.

everything was in order, and we checked our 3 bags and wandered to security with our lighter than normal backpacks. taking only the books we were going to read on the flight, and our electronics, we felt strange for not having to struggle down the concourse lugging everything that wouldn’t fit into our carryons. checked luggage is such a luxury.

we found our gate and made ourselves comfortable. i wrote the first few paragraphs of this post, and then got suspicious because the gate wasn’t filling up with passengers. so i walked back to check the boards, and of course i’d gotten the gate wrong, so we shuffled down to the correct gate and waited some more. i tried to bring up the wifi on my computer so i could track the flight and look at the weather (hurricane michael was approaching the florida coast at that point). but my computer had trouble linking to the wifi – something about protocols – and the screen grayed out. so i gave up.

so. an 11 hour flight to istanbul. jim basically slept the whole way. i watched oceans 8 (the women), and slept some, and read some, and didn’t even take the computer out of my bag. we were unfortunately in the middle of the plane. i hadn’t chosen those seats, and i was pissed off about it, but the plane was full, and it was my fault because i didn’t ask at checkin, assuming the seats i had chosen were still our seats. but oh well.

we got to istanbul, went directly to the departure gates without going thru customs, and had some coffee. there was almost 4 hours to the next flight, so coffee seemed appropriate. it was just getting dark in istanbul. we’d left at 10:30pm on tuesday, and here it was 8pm on wednesday, and we’d only spent 11 hours in the air. confusing.

for the 5 hour flight to delhi, we had our original seats. window seats, of course, and i always take the window because jim does not have the same thirst to look down as i do. we flew over the black sea, and then mostly desert, and it was already dark, so all i saw were lights on the ground. and not many of those. and they were fuzzy lights, tho the night was clear. when we descended into delhi, i realized that the fuzziness was air pollution. we haven’t had it that bad since before the clean air and water act, parts of which have now been rescinded, so we’re about to have air pollution back in the states. oh the joys of capitalism.

(thursday). when we landed, the sky was just beginning to brighten. 5am. the immigration hall was very impressive to our tired eyes. huge copper bowls lining an enormous wall, with very large statues of mudras (sacred hand positions) lined up in the middle of the wall. when we finally found our line (e-visa, at the end), there was a mural on the wall, illustrating flight with various myths and legends. we stood in line in front of a flying monkey (not from the wizard of oz) chasing a woman with wings. couldn’t tell what myth that was, because the immigration guy said no, it wasn’t hanuman the monkey god, because hanuman was much more stocky. so we have no clue. we stood in the immigration line for some time, not because there were many people, but because they took a long time to scrutinize the passports, visa documents, and to ask questions. we didn’t get the full treatment, because they didn’t really question us, and never made us give them our fingerprints, as they did to others in the line. they have a special problem with visitors from pakistan, because the hindus and muslims hate each other, partly because of the enormous violence accompanying partition (where the british, after raping the county, divided it arbitrarily to cause maximum upset (just like in the middle east), and then left).

our friends gabi and sameer were waiting for us outside. our bags had been examined, but back in the states – we found a tsa note in them when we unpacked. it was daylight outside, and the smog was thick. we got into a van that was waiting for us, and drove along very nice parkland lining the road. already, pre-dawn, there were people out on the grass, stretching, doing yoga, jogging, walking. that’s because it gets so hot here, people take advantage of the coolth by going out early. we were driving along a 4 lane highway, but none of the vehicles were paying any attention to the markings. our own driver was driving on top of the line between lanes, and there were people passing on both sides. gabi told us that sometimes they make 8 lanes out of 4. the honking was constant, and the road was in bad condition in spots; apparently it’s always under repair in one spot or other. we actually had to detour from one highway to another that was set up somehow parallel, in order to deal with a spot they were having real trouble fixing. the foliage lining the road was lush – even jungle-like. gabi told us that monkeys lived in the woods, and warned us sternly not to engage monkeys, to not look them in the eyes, not to make any movements we didn’t want copied (like no attacking or rushing the monkeys to get them off the rooftop deck when they appear). she told us of the time a monkey walked right into the house – a big one – and screamed when she did, but then took a banana and left.

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we were favorably impressed with the highway’s parklike setting, but shocked when we got to the quarter where gabi lives. it’s called pahar ganj, and it’s known as the backpackers’ section of new delhi because of all the foreigners who come to this particular area, which is next to the train station. the first thing i noticed was an electrical/phone pole with about a hundred lines coming off it. our son jody repairs messes like this, and i’m pretty sure he’ll be horrified by the photos when i send them to him.

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the streets were incredibly crowded with people, cars, green and yellow taxis, auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws, beggers, dogs, and lots and lots of trash. the buildings all looked ancient, filled with tiny shops, dusty and dirty. and this was at 6am. when the car dropped us off, in front of a brightly lit hindu temple with loud indian music coming from it, we had to walk our bags down an alleyway beside it, and down another alley at right angles to it, to gabi’s house. the alleys were the same size as the small streets in venice, so you could touch both sides, but the difference is that the alleys in venice are clean, and empty of things, and the alleys in delhi are crowded with bikes, motorcycles, trash, and stuff, and very noisy and lively.

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it was early yet. gabi let us in and showed us around. the house was built in the ’80s, tho it seemed much older. the floors are all tile, the walls are all thick. it’s two storeys with a rooftop deck, and a verandah on the second floor. the kitchen is downstairs, aside the hall, which opens onto a livingroom space with stairs up to the second floor. there’s a grandparent’s bedroom on the first floor, and two other rooms they use as shop storage for gabi’s etsy store, and a bathroom. upstairs are 3 bedrooms, one used for storage and drying the laundry out of the polluted air, a living room, a bathroom, and the verandah, where we’re sitting at the moment (saturday). upstairs is a rooftop deck that looks up to the other rooftops. gabi told me the history. after partition in 1947, the government set aside land for the “returning” hindus expelled from pakistan, and they built huts and opened shops. when they made enough money, they moved out to less crowded areas, and others moved in. the owner of gabi’s house was first generation, and in the ’80s built the first large house in the quarter – 3 storeys. then others followed suit. but instead of one-family huts, they put up 4 storey apartment buildings, and because of the narrowness of the street, i can lean out and touch the walls of the apartments across the street, and the laundry fills the space between, hung on lines. i could easily steal hat nice length of printed fabric over there. but then again, the kids could just as easily climb over here and steal my laptop while i go downstairs to check on my bread. but it won’t happen, because i don’t steal, and because there’s a large dog here, and indians are scared of dogs.

we went right to sleep, just after the sun came up. jim stayed home all that day, while eventually gabi and i went out to the main bazaar and tried to get me a sim card. the sim card before the phone, because it takes a whole day to activate. the guy with the sim card is the chemist, who is also the guy who takes payment for utility bills. we started the application, and had a scan of my passport, which is needed to get a sim card here. but immediately he wanted to have a print out of my visa stamp, which we didn’t have, and a passport photo to attach to the application. so we had to delay that purchase. i asked him if he could sell me the drug i use for my asthma, and he whipped it out, and said it was about $10. my prescription is $300 in the states, and half that in canada, so i get it from canada, but i’m going to go home with a year’s supply from here.

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then we went to one of her vendors, in the main bazaar, and she bought a lot of decorated pouches for wedding favors. she sells a lot of those. i looked around, found a few presents for others, and two large kantha quilts for us. he threw in a few more things for presents, and sold the lot to me for less than $50. in the end, we had more than we could put on the back of her scooter, so she put me on a cycle rickshaw with the bags, and i bounced along over the horrendous streets until i got back to the house. except the rickshaw stopped in the road outside and we had to hike in thru the alleys. if gabi wasn’t waiting for us, we would have never found the particular alley, because i hadn’t yet gotten my bearings (still don’t have them).

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she’s been introducing me to all her vendors so i can go back and get things at a good price, and everybody stared at her in the streets. she’s been here for years, so everyone in the quarter knows who she is, and tho she hardly walks anywhere her scooter would go, they all want to stop and talk to her when she’s on foot. a little like me in olafsfjordur, only instead of 800 people there are 80,000.

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the rest of thursday is lost to me. it was 2 before we’d gotten up from our nap, and getting late by the time we got back. jim had had his second nap, and i was exhausted. what did we eat? i don’t remember at all. jim had a third nap, and i stayed up talking to gabi and sameer until i couldn’t stand it any more. we’re sleeping in their room (thank you) and they’re taking the spare bedroom, because they leave on monday. i’ve got only 4 days to figure out how everything works so i can do all the things i’m supposed to do to be a good housesitter.

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friday we all got up around noon. our bedroom is pitch black, and the windows are shuttered, so we have no idea what time it is. so we slept a long time, which was good. eventually we all were up and moving, and gabi, jim and i went out to go get something to eat at ajay – one of the restaurants she recommends, where they serve continental food that jim can eat. because he can’t take spices. so of course he’s come to the wrong country, because everything is curry here in delhi, until we go to a mughal restaurant where they serve northern indian (muslim) cuisine that has lots of milk in it and few spices. here in delhi everything else tastes like curry, and you can smell the spices in the streets, especially the main bazaar.

jim hadn’t yet been exposed to the noise and crowds and bad street surfaces of the main bazaar yet, so i was concerned.  and he lagged behind as he always does, if even a bit more slowly because of all the obstacles underfoot and around him. but i had to keep up with gabi, so it was a constant struggle urging him to keep up.

we stopped at ajay’s resthouse and restaurant to eat lunch.  it was after 12, so the breakfast buffet was off, but jim and i got fried rice and gabi got chicken cordon bleu.  jim and i ate only a few mouthfuls, so we had to-go bowls when we left.  lunch (and dinner) for three was about $20.

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skeeter’s relatives

we stopped a little later to get a lassi, a yogurt smoothie. it was delicious, and very useful for keeping intestinal illnesses at bay.  there were some cute little puppies playing in the street, in the same neighborhood where gabi found skeeter several years ago.  he looked just the same, so she figures they must be related.

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jim, lassi, and a puppy

we had brought some baby clothes for one of gabi’s friends who’d just now had her first baby.  so we went along when she delivered them, but nobody was prepared for a gathering of the aunties and other relatives.  they were there to celebrate the baby’s birth, and we just happened along.

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the aunties were all singing songs in honor of the boy’s birth.  it’s a different set of songs than for a girl, and they would stop in the middle of a song and wonder between them how it went.

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as is normal for these occasions (as if i knew), the new grandma made food, and they passed out chai and sweet things for everyone to eat.  we’re watching our food intake, and didn’t dare eat because of the possibility of getting sick, so we had to refuse, which is rude, i think.

on the way back, we stopped into another one of gabi’s vendors, because she needed to buy some stamps to sell.  we took advantage of this stop to buy a few ourselves, excited about the artistic potential of such beautiful images.  a dozen or so stamps cost us about $50.

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then we wandered some more.  pahar ganjj is the quarter where gabi lives.  it’s extremely crowded, as is most of this part of new delhi.  we are told the streets are spacious and half-empty compared to the streets of old delhi, and we are advised to hire a bike rickshaw when we visit old delhi so we don’t get crushed or separated in the crowd.

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the architecture, at times, is exquisite

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and this is how it used to be done.  a very heavy cast iron iron, filled with burning coals.  the weight itself presses the clothes, but the heat makes it even more effective

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saturday we had to go to the post office to mail out some packages.  this is part of what i’ll be doing here, so i have to know how to get there, whose window to stand in front of, what the exact procedures are.  so we all went.  first gabi had to negotiate the cab.  we used an auto-rickshaw to get to cp – or connaught place – in the heart of new delhi.  this is a quarter that is extraordinarily different from pahar ganj.  it was built by the british, duh, and designed by luytens, a british architect, and built back in the 1920s to house the elite of the british empire.  basically it was built for the white conquerors and their functionaries.  now it is inhabited by more elite, including embassies and companies.

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begger children and adults are everywhere.  if you take a picture of them, then you owe them some money.  otherwise everybody ignores them except for people whose religion requires the giving of alms, like muslims

one thing about traffic here.  there are no rules.  i’ve already discussed the lines in the road, which are mere suggestions.  and then there are traffic lights.  people only stop for traffic lights when there are stopped cars in front of them, blocking their way.  otherwise everybody tries to go in every direction at once, blowing their horns and squeezing into any possible holes.  that’s why there are 8 lanes occupied on a 4-lane highway.

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we finally got to cp, or connaught place as non-residents know it (we were cautioned to ask for cp when negotiating the price with the rickshaw driver, because they’d know we were tourists if we ask for connaught place, and there would be no negotiating).  gabi gave me a list of places i might want to go once she’s left for her vacation, so i know what to negotiate towards, but honestly, it’s a ridiculous venture unless you like haggling, because that half hour taxi ride we took to cp with three passengers cost us 100 rupies, which is about a dollar.  even then, gabi negotiated, gesticulated, told the guy off (he wanted to take us to an emporium, an overpriced shop where he gets a commission for taking us there, and a percentage if we buy something), and walked away until he said, ‘okay, 100’, and we got in.  she fumed and fussed halfway there.

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the buildings might look imperial from the front, but it’s the typical delhi architecture around the back

the driver let us off in front of a benneton shop, because in this part of delhi it’s all designer, except for the people on the sidewalk selling things.  we passed identical bags to the ones we saw in her vendor’s shop, and lots of books.  but we were told that the books are so terribly cheap because they are copied, and perhaps missing pages, or being badly collated so that you have to hunt for the next page you want to read.

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the post office lady (auntie, they call her, or deedee to me) took our packages.  gabi introduced me as her helper, and we nodded and smiled at each other.  and that was that.

while we were at cp, she took us into a high-end bakery.  the smell was heavenly, but we’d just eaten at a fusion restaurant (jim got chicken livers, i got fried rice, i forget what gabi got), so we passed it by.

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the dogs in this part of delhi are pampered.  the shop owners feed them and give them clean water to drink, and they laze around all day just like this set.  the brown stains you see on the wall aren’t something horrible, but paan juice that the men have to spit somewhere.  we passed a group of workers painting the white building, and they were just going right over the stains, as if the paint would actually stick over it.

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our business done, we hopped another auto rickshaw back to pahar ganj, and walked home from the corner of the large street.  we were amused to find a cow in the street, or more likely a calf.  this is apparently common.

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turns out it must have been a calf, because along came mama cow, lumbering behind him.

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on sunday we had to go to khan market, because gabi needed to buy catfood and dogfood.  there were a lot of other things they had to do, because they planned on leaving monday morning.  plus, we needed some local currency.  we’ve been borrowing out of gabi’s wallet so far, and i was running up quite a bill.  we bought a phone, for instance – a vivo v7, made last year in china, but then what smartphone isn’t?  it would have cost a whole bunch more if sameer hadn’t gone by himself with a list of phones i had researched.  it cost me $200, so i’m not complaining.  it makes my old iphone 4 look like the brick it has turned into.

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before we got to the street with the auto rickshaws, we passed thru a street where gabi’s kashmiri suppliers have a shop.  it’s the most posh street in pahar ganj, with very expensive houses and streets wide enough to park cars on both sides.  here is one of the lovely buildings, and gabi guesses it’s actually old, unlike in istanbul, where the older and nicer a building looks, the younger it actually is.

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we didn’t do any shopping in that place, because we were short on time.  i hope i remember where it is…

it was a similar road to khan market as to cp, very nice, very gardenlike, very spacious.  terrible traffic.  we saw some women laborers fixing a brick culvert, which i thought was very unusual, because in general all the workers and shophands are men.  they had a tiny little toddler with them, and she was sitting in the street, just out of the range of the cars, and was focused on her family and didn’t seem at all tempted by the traffic, thank god.

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we passed the sikh temple, modeled on the one at amristar.  we might visit, if we have time.  hahahahahahaha

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we thought our auto was crowded with three adults in the back.  but here’s an entire family, and they’re not the only ones we saw.  they waved back and smiled after i took the photo and waved at them.

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likewise, it’s amazing what they can carry on the back of a scooter.  and that’s only a small load.

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gabi got the driver, even tho she was mad at him, to ride us by the india gate, so we could see it, since we’re unlikely to make a trip just to see it.  in this area the distances are rather vast, and completely unwalkable, so of course i sat on the outside of the rickshaw and took lots of photos of things we passed.

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we got to khan market, which was not the mall i was expecting, but rather several streets of shops.  we were on a hunt for money first, food second, and supplies third.  we tried one bank’s atm, and it rejected both of our cards, mine and gabi’s.  then we walked all the way around the market to the other atm, and it too had fits.  this was very upsetting to both of us, as gabi has learned to carry cash when she travels for exactly this reason.

defeated, we went to a restaurant where she knows the owner.  it’s a pizza place, called la vie (suggesting french food), and featuring a mural of amsterdam houses on the wall.  the owner came up and talked to us, took our order (11″ four-cheese pizza with fresh garlic and bacon on half), and brought us a bottle of hand sanitizer.  we waited for our food, and when it came it was volcanic, so it took us a bit of time before we could eat it.  i hadn’t had anything all day, except coffee, and it was running around 4pm, so we were all hungry.  gabi ducked out while we were waiting, and came back with a helper who carried her bags for her.  then when we were mostly done with the pizza, she got a text message from her american bank, saying they suspected the card of being fraudulently used.  and she panicked.  so would i.

but because i needed some things at the western market, we made a quick trip into the store while jim finished his pizza.  i got american food – cereal, cheddar, goat cheese and cream cheese, peanut butter, strawberry jam, ovaltine, and 2 kilos of ground lamb meat.  then we ducked into another western bakery and i cleaned them out of croissants, with a couple of cinnamon rolls thrown in.  and then we picked jim up and left.  or tried to leave.  gabi got help with her bags, and i followed her, but the people sitting next to us stopped jim to take a photo, and then kept him talking until gabi had finished negotiating the auto and was getting impatient.

then it was the same trip home, with packages, and we arrived back shortly before it started to get dark.  first up was panicky skypes to our banks.  gabi got her problem solved, but i did not, as it turns out i don’t have the pin for one card.  the bank is going to send the pin to my home address, in 8-10 business days, and until that i am stuck.  but gabi called her pharmacist friend vipin, and he had a friend who ran a money changer’s shop, and we had someone to go to if my one card really didn’t work in the atms.  the rest of the evening was just as hurried, because they had to pack, and we had to get several packages done and ready to go to the post office so we could see if i could handle it.  and that part went fine.  but it was still several hours before we could pour ourselves drinks (cold saki) and sit back for a final review of things that needed to happen, and things we needed to know.  i wrote everything down in my notebook.

then it was 11:30 at night, and jim and i were tired puppies, so we went to sleep while gabi and sameer finished packing, wandering in and out of the bedroom gathering things last minute.  i don’t think we noticed.  this morning we were all up by 6 (usually gabi gets up around 10 or 12, because she has to work on american time, where most of her customers are – 11 1/2 hours behind delhi time).  a few more last minute things to be written down, and then they were off in their car.

monday.  jim and i went back to sleep, and it was noon before we got back up.  and then we had to go out and solve our money problems.  so it was out on the streets of delhi, BY OURSELVES.  but i’d already done this several times with gabi, and i had my phone with its gps, so we didn’t get lost.  but jim still wouldn’t keep up, and i don’t blame him because of the state of the roads, and all the obstacles.  we walked along main bazaar to the main road – gupta – dodging motorbikes and cycle rickshaws and auto rickshaws, and even a car at one point.  every vehicle blaring their horn, as if it would help, as if people would get out of their way.  we tried one bank’s atm, then another’s, and were rebuffed each time.  then we went into a bank, and repeated what my bank at home told me, which was any bank would give us cash on our credit card.  the woman only looked puzzled and said no way, and sent us to her atm, which she said would give us no problems.  but that wasn’t true.

so we found our way to vipin’s pharmacy to get directions to his friend the forex merchant.  but on our way thru a narrow alley, a passing motorcycle grazed jim’s arm, and he was bleeding.  so in the middle of waiting for  our turn to get vipin’s help, i showed him jim’s arm, and he pulled out cotton wool, gauze, betadyne cream, and iodine liquid, and i patched jim up.  he was really hassled, and annoyed, because of the raucous horns and the press of people and the unevenness of the road, and i felt sorry for him, because he was using words like detestable and despicable.


he’s getting the worst of this trip so far

we got to the money changer’s office, a tiny little hole in the wall just big enough for a desk and 3 chairs.  it was air conditioned, however.  he ran the card i don’t have a pin for, it went thru, and we got out hopefully enough to more than last us.  any money we don’t spend we’ll leave for gabi, and we’ll be settling up after we all get home.  i’m so glad i have friends here.  it would be a nightmare if we were alone.  that’s why i travel to friends; not only is it much cheaper, but you have help when you need it.


beware people who don’t count their money, especially when it’s banded

so we’re alone now, and i’ll post again in a few days.  next week we’ll be travelling outside of delhi, and that’ll be another experience entirely.  for now, i’m going to make burgers and rice for dinner, while jim naps.  we’ve been travelling for six days, with only 4 days here on the ground in india.

someone’s vintage shop, with totally vintage equipment


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